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             Overview                    Prepare                    Highlights 

Arrive in Prague, and you could be forgiven for thinking that you've strayed into a fairy tale. For Prague is impossibly pretty, with pastel houses, gothic spires and golden statues, but behind the fairy tale lies a gritty past littered with revolutions, nazi occupation and communist austerity. It won't spoil your trip though, for it's hard to feel sad in this magical city.

You could be forgiven for thinking that you've strayed into a fairy tale....

Many hotels in Prague are within walking distance of the city centre. Prague hotels now include many worldwide chains, and have significantly improved and expanded in number, thanks to the explosion of tourism that the city has seen in recent years. Perhaps ideally, the compact layout of the city means that most of the hotels in Prague are close to most of its main attractions, but some areas, such as Hradcany, the area around Prague Castle, are quite hilly and with less simple access, and so only suitable for sprightly travellers. In most instances, though, you can step out of your hotel in the evening, and into the pulsating nightlife, or, by day, into a whirl of street vendors and shops, culture and heritage.

The Old Town Square, once shoulder to shoulder with market traders, is now bustling with holidaymakers, and no wonder. The pastel coloured merchant's mansions have pavement cafés spilling out from beneath the arches, and every hour a crowd waits for the moment that the Old Town Clock strikes. The trap door opens, and Christ marches out followed by his 12 Apostles, while the skeleton of death tolls his bell. Afterwards, wander down to Charles Bridge, which crosses the Vltava River at the very heart of Prague. Guarded by imposing towers at either end, it is flanked by over 75 brooding statues which watch your progress as you cross this evocative bridge. Come at dawn or dusk for the most eerie experience, or during the day to catch street performers and the entertaining jazz band. 

Horses and Carriage in Prague

High on the skyline above the bridge sits Prague Castle, a huge and ancient complex with a palace, a monastery and the gothic St Vitus Cathedral. Be sure to see the Golden Lane, where tiny, colourful houses are tucked into the arches of the castle wall, and now house souvenir shops. However, for authentic Czech souvenirs, explore the dinky streets of the Mala Strana district beneath the castle walls, for here you will find puppets, wooden toys and hand painted eggs.

With so many sights to see, you'll need some sustenance, and with goulash, roast pork, dumplings and sauerkraut on offer, the hearty local cuisine will offer just that. The Czechs invented the first clear, golden lager in Europe, so you'll find excellent beer to wash it all down. And Prague's bars and restaurants beat the lot when it comes to atmosphere. Many are tucked into vaulted cellars with open stoves and live jazz bands. This is a city of music, with opera, ballet and classical concerts throughout the year.

Tempted? You should be, for this city is very special indeed.

Overview

Overview

With its maze of cobbled lanes leading to sumptuous baroque churches, Art Nouveau mansions and eccentric museums, Prague is a magical city with a fairytale skyline.

See

Mighty 9th-century Prague Castle and Gardens, sitting high above the River Vltava, is the premier port of call. You’ll also find the soaring St Vitus Cathedral within its walls. Across the river, the Old Town Square is dominated by Prague’s iconic Astronomical Clock, while the synagogues of the Jewish Museum are dotted around the Josefov district.

Spend

Stroll along super-smart Parízská for international designer wear, or pick up cheaper items on Wenceslas Square, where you’ll also find the city’s biggest bookstores. The streets around Old Town Square are lined with shops selling Bohemian crystal, jewellery and souvenirs, while Malá Strana is a rewarding hunting ground for antiques.

Get Out

Prague’s biggest park is Stromovka, where you can picnic beneath the trees and feed the ducks. Atop Petrin Hill there’s a maze and an observatory where you can spy on the stars. An organised bike tour is a great way to explore the city at a friendly pace.

Culture

Prague is a truly musical city. Catch a concert at the Rudolfinum, home of the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, or a performance at the Prague State Opera. Prague is famous for ‘black light theatre’ – a unique kind of backlit pantomime. See a show at All Colours Theatre. For the best live jazz, head to AghaRTA Jazz Centrum.

Eat & Drink

Traditional Czech pork-and-dumplings are a staple at many restaurants, but cosmopolitan Prague has a huge array of international cuisine to try. Splash out on a fine French meal at riverside C’est La Vie, enjoy Brazilian or Japanese food in Staré Mesto, or sample the bistros of Vinohrady.

New Perspective

Scan the city from the viewing deck at the top of the 216m TV Tower. View the river while dining on lobster in Céleste on top of Gehry's Dancing House (also quaintly know as the 'Fred and Ginger Building'). Or gaze down at Wenceslas Square from the upper floors of the National Museum.

Prepare

Prepare

Bring a comfortable pair of shoes to negotiate those cobbled lanes, a thirst for Bohemian champagne, and a mind ready to be teased by good old Prague surrealism.

Prague Year

See the bonfires and merry-making at the Pálení čarodejnic (witch burning) festival in April. In May, treat your eyes to the classical music of the prestigious Prague Spring Festival. The Prague Proms fill July to August, and the Italian Opera Festival August to September. Celebrate the wine harvest at Vinobraní in late September, and browse the winter wonderland at December’s Christmas Market.

Public Holidays

New Year’s Day (1 Jan), Easter Monday (Mar/Apr), Labour Day (1 May), Liberation Day (8 May), Saints Cyril and Methodius Day (5 Jul), Jan Hus Day – remembering the Bohemian protestant writer who was burned at the stake in 1415 (6 Jul), Czech Statehood Day (28 Sep), Independence Day (28 Oct), Struggle for Freedom and Democracy Day (17 Nov), Christmas (25 & 26 Dec).

Weather

The months between November and February are the coldest, when the temperature can dip below freezing, though some say Prague is prettiest when the snow is deep and crisp and even. May and September are pleasant times to visit, with cool to warm weather (10-18°C). The summers – June to August – are hot (20-25°C) and can be stormy.

Electricity

220V AC, 50 Hz, two-pin plugs are standard.

Dialling Code

+420 (national) + 9-figure number (Prague). There are no area codes in the Czech Republic.

Money

Czech Koruna (Kč) is the currency.

GMT

GMT +1.

Prague Tourist Info

Prague Information Service website

Fit In

Most Praguers prefer a casual look. If you want to really blend in, ditch the shorts and baseball cap and don understated designer wear for an evening out in Staré Mesto or Vinohrady. Go grungy in Zizkov and, if heading to the opera or theatre, dress smart.

Get Around

Get Around

Divided by the formidable River Vltava, central Prague is a pedestrian-friendly city. Excellent public transport makes discovering the city’s ten districts simple. Each has its own unique flavour.

Historic Staré Mesto (the Old Town) is on the east bank of the river and centres on the Old Town Square. North of here is the refined old Jewish district of Josefov. Travel south and east for the shops, restaurants and bars of bustling Nové Mesto, and south again for hip Vinohrady. Cross the river to the west bank via the medieval Charles Bridge to reach picturesque Malá Strana and stately Hradčany, home to Prague Castle and Gardens.

Foot

Much of central Prague is pedestrianised, including the Old Town Square and several of the streets leading off it, as well as the cobbled lanes of Malá Strana. This is where many of the top sights cluster, so get your walking shoes on.

Metro

Prague’s extensive underground network, or Metro, is a quick way to get around. There are three lines, A (green), B (yellow) and C (red), which criss-cross the city centre and terminate in the suburbs.

Tram

Trams are handy for travelling all over the city. Popular routes can get crowded, but they are perfect for sightseeing and cover a wider area than the Metro. The ‘Nostalgic Tram No 91’ does a heritage circuit between the Public Transport Museum and the Old Town.

Bus

Buses tend to be less crowded than trams, but are mostly of use for travel outside of the city centre.

Taxi

Prague has no shortage of taxis, but if you want to catch a cab, you should order one by phone from a trustworthy, official company or look for taxi ranks with the ‘Fair Place’ signs as these are controlled by Prague's City Hall and provide reliable services. Don’t hail one on the street either – it is illegal for them to stop anywhere but at an official taxi rank.

Transport Tips

Travel passes – available for one, three or five days – give you unlimited travel on trams, buses and the Metro system in Prague. Buy them at any Metro station and validate your ticket in the little machines as soon as you board a bus or tram or enter a Metro station.

Time Travel

Experience medieval Prague around Prague Castle; the18th-century city at the exuberant St Nicholas Church; 19th-century Prague at the National Museum; and the 20th century at the cubist House of the Black Madonna. The 21st century reveals itself in the bizarre Dancing House and the Memorial to the Victims of Communism.

Prague Transport Link

Prague Transport Department website

Highlights

Highlights

Gothic fortresses, baroque churches, cubist villas and exquisitely landscaped gardens – plus numerous museums and art galleries – compete for attention in central Prague.

Visitors are drawn to the historic Old Town Square, where visitors gather beneath the automated Astronomical Clock, and, just to the south, Wenceslas Square. This is lined with department stores and watched over by the National Museum.

Find Josefov north of the Old Town, with its ancient Jewish cemetery and gothic, Renaissance and 19th-century synagogues. For excellent views, cross the river at the Charles Bridge. Ambling along the timeless cobbled streets and calling into the baroque churches of Malá Strana is a joy, and you can easily spend the whole day exploring the museums, galleries and gardens of Prague Castle.

Sightseeing Tips

Buy the Prague Card for free access to many of the city’s museums for four days. The Army Museum is free to visit, while some of the city’s bigger museums offer free entry on one day each month – at the National Museum it’s the first Monday.

Content provided by Frommer's Unlimited © 2009, Whatsonwhen Limited.