Mumbai Hotels

Bordering the Arabian Sea with its famous coastline, Mumbai and its suburbs stretch to the north, but most of your travelling will be in the south.

Most of Mumbai's history and entertainment are packed into the south, but the local train makes it easy to travel to the fashionable northern suburbs.

In the south find Victoriana in arty Fort, Churchgate's cricket grounds, and shopping and nightlife in Colaba. The centre has Mahalaxmi racecourse and temples; Chowpatty Beach and graceful Malabar Hill lie in the west. Head north for high-street fashion in busy Bandra, and glamorous cocktails in Juhu.

Mumbai's yellow-and-black taxis are cheap, convenient and everywhere. Most drivers put on the meter, insist if they don't. Air-con taxis are blue and cost around double. Always get a pre-paid taxi from the airport and ignore drivers who insist your hotel is closed – and any offers to see his cousin's carpet shop.

Catch the suburban line going north from Churchgate or north-east from Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (VT) to cut out the traffic. The cheap, frequent services are ideal for destinations like mid-town Bandra. First-class and women's carriages are slightly less crowded, but all are horribly packed at rush hour.

Get a real feel for the crowded city streets by exploring Fort, Churchgate and the market areas on foot. Fort Walks is a handy book of walking tours in the area, available from local bookshops.

Three-wheeled motorised autorickshaws are available in the central suburbs, and not allowed in the south. Cheaper than taxis, they are good for short journeys. Always have the meter put on, the final amount to be calculated with a conversion chart to current rates, as with taxis.

Although very slow, the top deck of a double-decker bus is always a great way to travel, and also the cheapest. Like other public transport, try to avoid jam-packed rush hours.

Avoid rush hours (8am-10am, 5pm-8pm) when it's hard to find space to breathe on the train and traffic moves at a snail's pace. Allow plenty of time in the taxi if catching a flight or train. Take care of valuables on trains and women should spend a few rupees extra to make use of the first-class ladies' compartments.

Sail back to the fifth century, wandering inside the huge rock-cut temples of Elephanta Island; gaze up at the Gothic tower of Bombay University, the best of British India; pay your respects to one of the 20th century's greatest figures at Mani Bhawan, home of Mahatma Gandhi.

Western Railway website