Istanbul hotels

With old and new - and European and Asian - Istanbul all separated by water, some of the most exciting journeys are by boat.

Most visitors spend the majority of their time on the European side of the Bosphorus, either around the historic attractions of old Istanbul, or taking advantage of the buzzing nightlife and shopping in the modern part of the city.

Old Istanbul (or is it Constantinople?) spreads across the western and central part of the city: this is where you'll find the Blue Mosque and Haghia Sophia in Sultanahmet, the Spice Market in Eminönü and Grand Bazaar in Beyazit. Head north-east across the Golden Horn (a tributary of the Bosphorus) for late-night shopping in Taksim, and bars and restaurants in buzzing Beyoglu. Sail east across the Bosphorus for the Asian side of the city and Üsküdar and busy Kadiköy.

Istanbul's yellow taxis are cheap, comfortable and prevalent. Flag them down on the street rather than picking up a stationary cab outside hotels or tourist sites. Make sure the meter is switched on (charges are 50% extra at night) and try and avoid rush-hour clogged streets.

Handy for commuters, pleasurable for visitors and perfect on sunny days, a passenger ferry between the European and Asian side of Istanbul is cheap and has the best views. Take the leisurely cruise up the Bosphorus or simply use it as a way to get between Eminönü and Üsküdar.

Most of the single-decker buses are now air-conditioned but can get packed and very hot in summer. The dolmuş (minibus) is faster, slightly more expensive, always guarantees a seat and better for long journeys. Pick them up from designated stops around the city.

With relatively few stops (but new ones being dug as you read this) the Metro is super clean, efficient, and the quickest way to get from Taksim Square to the business and shopping districts of Levent.

The best way to whizz through old Istanbul, the modern tramway starts starts at Kabatas with stops including Sultanahmet for the Blue Mosque, Eminönü for the Spice Market and Beyazit for the Grand Bazaar.

Pay a small deposit for an Akbil, a transport token which can be topped up then cancelled out for any journey on public transport including bus, metro, local ferry and tram. It means cheaper fares, and saves a lot of time as tickets would otherwise have to be bought before each journey. Avoid rush hour if possible on all public transport. When you want the dolmus to stop, say "inecek var" to the driver.

Travel underground to the 1st century's Byzantine Basilica Cistern in Sultanahmet; pop in to the 19th-century Sirkeci Railway Station, built for the first routes to Europe and the famous Orient Express; then return to today's creations at the vast Istanbul Modern, housing the city's best contemporary art.