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Not so long ago, St Ives was one of the busiest fishing ports in south-west England, and its cobbled streets were heaving with fishermen hefting pots of pilchards to market. Today, though, the town’s harbourside is lined with craft shops, galleries and chic roof-terrace bars.
Boats still bob in the harbour, but fishermen now supplement their incomes by taking visitors on fishing trips. In addition, the coast’s famously limpid skies have attracted many artists to settle here, leading to the opening of the Tate St Ives, sister to London’s contemporary art gallery.
Porthmeor Beach is the most popular of several sandy beaches flanking the town; it’s buzzing with holidaymakers enjoying some surfing, paddleboarding, kayaking or just lolling in the balmy sunshine throughout the summer. The winding back streets overlooking Porthmeor Beach have lots of cheap and friendly B&Bs and guesthouses, and there are a couple of grander country house hotels and holiday parks on the coast just beyond the town too.
Lining St Ives’ winding maze of narrow lanes are brightly-painted rows of old fishermen’s’ cottages. Today, many of these simple terraces have been converted into chic art galleries, handicraft shops, restaurants and delis. Browsing shoppers could pick up a hand-knitted sweater, an original artwork or graze on fine Cornish produce from ever-popular pasties to cheeses, organic cider and locally-grown fruit and vegetables.
You could also join a guided walk around the town led by local experts. Art and history-themed tours give fascinating insights into the rich local history, and visit galleries and workshops of artists who have settled here since the 1960s including Barbara Hepworth, Bernard Leach, Naum Gabo, Patrick Heron and Roger Hilton.
From the craggy coastline to the rolling green countryside, there are opportunities for challenging outdoor adventures all around St Ives. You could go on a seal-watching safari, go ‘coasteering,’ – clambering over rocky headlands and splashing through rock pools – kayak to hidden coves, cycle the country backroads, walk the coastal path or go pony riding along ancient drovers’ trails in the tranquil hillsides.
Those with more sedate tastes also have plenty of options such as art courses run by Newlyn School of Art, food foraging workshops and birdwatching in nearby nature reserves and sanctuaries.
If you’re looking for somewhere to stay in the unspoilt countryside around St Ives, you’ll be spoilt for choice: there are family-friendly and cheap campsites and caravan parks, luxury boutique hotels and holiday cottages, and several opulent grand hotels complete with all the expected amenities.
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