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City breaks in Geneva

Often associated with business, bureaucracy and sky-high prices, Geneva doesn’t immediately come to mind when considering a city break. But look beyond its shiny exterior and you’ll discover a destination that is rich in other ways, from world-class culture to natural wonders.

Set where the River Rhône joins Lake Geneva and surrounded by the Alps, a Geneva city break is nothing short of beautiful – a theme that continues in the heart of the city itself. And it’s hard not to notice how clean and modern it is, which is an experience in itself!

If you like an outdoorsy holiday, Geneva is a top spot for an alternative summer break. The lake is a hotspot – of course – with locals and tourists heading to the banks to swim, sunbathe and picnic. You can also get out onto the water, to paddle board or sail. Landlubber? Make a beeline for the mountains for hiking.

Winter, too, is a good time to go, where mountain hikes make way for winter sports like skiing and snowboarding, and fondue cafes and lantern-lit lakeside scenes transform the ambience of the city (think cosy, hearty vibes).

Culture is another highlight, and Geneva’s offering holds up very well in comparison with other cities in Europe. There are the gorgeous St Pierre Cathedral's scenic towers, paintings by Renoir in the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire and the Patek Philippe Museum's Swiss clock-making exhibits to name but a few.

As you’ll notice wandering around Geneva, there’s an international feel to the city – which is no surprise given that it’s home to a serious number of international organisations. This is another reason to visit, with the likes of the United Nations’ headquarters, World Health Organisation and the World Trade Organisation offering fascinating tours.

What to do in Geneva

From the majestic Jet d'Eau fountain to the stately UN offices, charming neighbourhoods and Gothic cathedrals, there’s much to see and do in Geneva.

Jet d'Eau

The Jet d'Eau, the largest fountain in Geneva, shoots 500 litres of water per second up to 140m (460ft) before it rains downwards. Walking as close as the wind direction allows is a classic tourist activity in Geneva.

Watch for rainbows on a sunny day and look out for night-time illuminations celebrating different days throughout the year.

Cathédrale St-Pierre

Geneva's old town weaves along narrow passageways to historic squares, cafes and shops. Among them is one must-see: the Cathédrale St-Pierre, where Protestant reformationist John Calvin used to preach.

Take some photos of the impressive Gothic interior – a surprising contrast to its Neo-Classical façade – then climb the spiral staircase to the cathedral's North Tower for panoramic views of the city.

Buy a combined ticket for access to the cathedral and to learn about the Protestant Reformation at the Musée International de la Réforme.

Carouge

With a French Riviera feel, Carouge is a tram ride away, just across the river. Its pastel buildings and handsomely shuttered houses frame artisan workshops, art galleries and bookshops to lose yourself in.

While you’re on this side of the River Arve, take a walk or bike ride along its banks or swim in the pools of Piscine de la Fontenette – the high diving boards and snaking flumes are popular with locals in the summer.

Palais des Nations

In a leafy park with peacocks strutting around, the Palais des Nations has been one of the United Nations’ main international offices since 1966.

You can get a one-hour guided tour that takes you into the Assembly Hall, the impressive Council Chamber and the Human Rights and Alliance of Civilisations Room. Each room has murals or art by international artists, so look out for pieces by Miquel Barcelò and murals by José Maria Sert.

La Jonction

At La Jonction, the brilliant-blue River Rhône meets the milky-brown River Arve – but their different flows and temperatures mean the waters don’t mix, creating a striking two-toned river. See their dramatic confluence and get Instagramming from the viaduct just west of the city centre.

Join locals at the Café de la Tour for a meal or drinks before continuing your stroll or taking a dip in the Rhône at Plage de la Jonction on a warm evening.

When to go to Geneva

Being a major business city, Geneva’s best travel times differ slightly to other European holiday destinations. Because hotel rates are most expensive during the week, weekends are good times to find a cheap city break to Geneva.

As it is outside conference season, summer considered is off peak, which may come as something of a surprise. Temperatures at this time of the year can swing from 13C to 26C, and there’s a real party feel, with lots of swimming in the lake and outdoor celebrations and festivals. In short, it’s a great time to travel to Geneva.

The city is particularly busy in autumn and spring, with lots of conferences booking out the hotels. The ski season and winter markets and parties make Christmas and New Year the priciest period.

Where to stay in Geneva

For families

The lakeside neighbourhood of Eaux-Vives – home of the Jet d’Eau fountain – is a good area for families as it’s close to the old town but still pleasant and quiet.

With the largest park in the city, Parc de la Grange, on your doorstep, you can take in a show at its open-air theatre or spend a summer evening around one of its barbecue pits. There are plenty of restaurants, too, so there’s no need to travel far for dinner.

For travellers on a budget

Close to the university, Plainpalais is the place for budget hotels. Its student population also makes it a good spot to eat and drink on the cheap, and its flea market is the largest in Geneva.

You could also try a hostel or cheaper hotel in Pâquis, on the lake shore and near the railway station. An up-and-coming hipster district, Pâquis has eclectic cafes and restaurants, the Bain des Pâquis – a lido built on the jetty in the 1870s – and the lush Perle du Lac park.

For food and drink

Pâquis is a great neighbourhood for food, being the most multicultural area of Geneva – here you’ll find Mexican, Thai, burgers, pizza and more.

For cheaper restaurants – Geneva is an expensive place to eat – head to Plainpalais. Stop by its cool wine bars or pick up rotisserie chicken, canelés (caramelised pastries with a rum and custard filling), paninis or crêpes at the farmers market (open Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday). Pretty Carouge is another good neighbourhood for charming restaurants and bars.

For nightlife

Geneva nightlife is relatively quiet. Most bars and nightclubs are around Plainpalais, where the students live. Head to Rue de l'École-de-Médecin for a bar crawl that won’t break the bank – but tables tend to fill up quickly on weekend evenings.

Carouge has plenty of bars to visit, too, mostly on Rue Vautier and Place du Marché. Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights are when most people go out in Geneva.

For culture

Geneva’s old town is great for history and culture. It’s easy to walk around and is home to the city’s oldest square, Place du Bourg de Four, Cathédrale St-Pierre and the Musée International de la Réforme. Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, the city’s largest museum, is also nearby.

Another handy place to stay is close to the Palais des Nations, the UN offices – just a few tram stops from the old town. Here you can get to the International Museum of the Red Cross and the botanical gardens very easily.