Venice holidays

At certain times of year, visitors outnumber locals by two to one, turning Piazza San Marco into an excitable squish of people taking selfies. Dodge the tour groups and cheap souvenir stalls by ditching the guidebook and getting a glimpse of the real Venice.

Wander down abandoned cobbled backstreets, peek through half-open doorways and generally go in the opposite direction of the flock. In doing so, you'll find hidden restaurants, cafes and museums that are free from camera-wielding tourists. You might get lost, but you won't regret it.

While you’re there, take some time to do as the Venetians do and relax over a leisurely glass of wine with cicchetti (the Italian version of tapas). Try bite-size tasters of raw fish, crostini with toppings of cheese and meat, and meatballs. In the evening, relax with a spritz or cocktail.

Even getting around on Venice’s waterways is fun. Depending on your budget, you can choose between vaporetto (waterbus) rides, zipping around by water taxis, or experiencing an iconic gondola. If you’d like to explore further afield, head to one of the islands north of Venice by vaporetto, such as Murano.

While not warm (it drops to around 3C in January), November and January are two of the best months to travel, when the city is swirled in mist, the tourist crowds have dissipated and there are cheap Venice city breaks up for grabs.

In February, it’s time for the city’s famous Venice Carnival when glittering masks and pomp are the norm and hotel prices rise. The Venice Art Biennale is held on odd-numbered years from May to November and the Architecture Biennale is on during even-numbered years.

Smack bang in the middle of Piazza San Marco, it's impossible to miss the Byzantine domes of Saint Mark's.

Step inside to be dazzled by bright mosaics, swathes of gold leaf and blinding glitter embellishments, all throwing coloured reflections across the floor. It will leave you squinting and speechless. If you’d like to skip the constant queue outside (which is usually around 45 minutes long), book an entry slot through the Basilica’s website.

Climb St Mark's Bell Tower

Stretching 99 metres (325 feet) above the piazza, St Mark's Bell Tower is the tallest building in Venice. It was first built in the 12th century but the structure you’ll see now was rebuilt in the 16th (and then again in 1902 as the tower collapsed). From the top, the city spreads out below like a toy maze of canals and bridges.

If the queue is too long, head for the viewpoint at the top of the San Giorgio Maggiore church instead.

The Doge's Palace

A vision of pure luxury, the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) is one of Venice's most visited landmarks. This towering Gothic masterpiece was the Doge's official residence and the seat of Venetian power for almost seven centuries.

Climb its golden staircases and explore the Doge's Apartments including its map room and the Sala degli Stucchi, which is guarded by 18 roaring lions. Don't miss Tintoretto's famous Paradise painting, which adorns the Great Council Hall.

Explore the outlying islands

If you start to feel suffocated by holidaymakers, take a tour of the tiny islands to the north of Venice, namely San Michele, Murano, Burano and Torcello.

Murano is famous for its gorgeous blown glass, Burano its lace and Torcello was a hit with Hemingway, who wrote Across the River and into the Trees here. San Michele, meanwhile, is home to a cemetery where you can visit poet Ezra Pound’s grave as well as those belonging to other famous figures.

Gallerie dell'Accademia

Venice has been a creative hotbed since the dawn of the Republic, giving rise to some of the most famous artists to grace the globe.

The Gallerie dell'Accademia offers a parade of Venetian masterpieces, from Renaissance classics by Bellini, Veronese, Tintoretto and Titian to the 18th-century works of Canaletto. If you're an art buff, you'll be utterly blown away.

If you’d like a quiet and residential base in Venice itself, Santa Croce has a number of small hotels and a charming park, Giardini Papadopoli, with a kids’ playground.

The largest sestiere (neighbourhood) in Venice, Castello, is also a good spot with little ones as there’s the green space of the Giardini della Biennale to roam around.

For travellers on a budget

The student district of Dorsoduro is a great place to stay if you’re on a budget as there’s a good range of affordable hotels and B&Bs, as well as excellent value places to eat. Home to Galleria dell’Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, the neighbourhood has an arty atmosphere, and it has some lively places to drink.

Another option is Cannaregio, north of San Marco. Home to one of the oldest Jewish ghettos in the world and excellent value restaurants, its B&Bs and hotels offer an affordable place to lay your head after a day sightseeing.

For food and drink

Home to the Rialto food markets, San Polo is an obvious place to stay for foodies. As well as admiring the colourful market stalls, you can hop between its buzzing bars and restaurants, perhaps feasting on cicchetti to keep your energy levels up.

Cannaregio is a fantastic area for casual restaurants and cicchetti bars, and there’s a vibrant Jewish quarter with a great range of kosher bakeries and restaurants.

For nightlife

Venice isn’t the destination to visit if you’re looking for a non-stop party but there’s still plenty going on. At night, some of the canals in Cannaregio become lively spots where hip bars buzz with locals and tourists drinking waterside.

Student district, Dorsoduro, also comes to life as the sun goes down. One of the best places to start a night out is in Campo Santa Margherita. If you’d like to dance the night away in a nightclub, Mestre, on the mainland, is your best bet. It’s also a fantastic place to stay if you’re looking for a cheap Venice city break.

For culture

You can’t really go wrong when choosing where to stay for culture in Venice as the city is crammed with beautiful palaces, museums and galleries. An obvious choice, however, if you’d like to have some of the biggest monuments and attractions on your doorstep is San Marco. It’s a busy spot, but rightly so with St Mark’s Basilica, the Doge’s Palace and St Mark’s Bell Tower a stroll away.

If you’re into art, Dorsoduro is a great spot as it’s home to the Peggy Guggenheim Collection and Galleria dell’Accademia as well as paintings by Paolo Veronese in the unassuming San Sebastiano church.