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Secret Italy: How to escape the tourist trail

Photo of Mary NovakovichPhoto of Mary Novakovich
By Mary Novakovich

20 August 2019 | Updated 26 July 20247 min read

Aerial view on the colourful port town of Corricella on the island of Procida, with yellow and red-hued buildings overlooking a port filled with fishing boats

Procida Pretty little Procida gets half the attention of its busy neighbours.

Italy just keeps on giving. You’ve got world-class cities, heavenly landscapes and superb cuisine.

Each region is almost like its own country – indeed, many of them were centuries ago. They all come with their own distinctive different dishes, countryside, histories and architecture.

You certainly don’t have to follow the well-worn tourist trail to have an unforgettable holiday in Italy. These Italian secrets – from hidden beaches to lakeside idylls and mountain magic – will make you fall under Italy’s spell and discover lesser-known sides to this marvellous country.

Pitch up by Lake Iseo

Aerial view of Loreto Island with the castle on Lake Iseo in Northern ItalyAerial view of Loreto Island with the castle on Lake Iseo in Northern Italy

Overshadowed by its huge neighbours Lakes Garda and Maggiore, little Lake Iseo just to the north of Brescia takes you back to a slower, more relaxed Italy. It’s a sleepy place of tiny villages hugging the shoreline, where young boys fish off the jetties while their parents indulge in an aperitivo in a waterside bar.

Base yourself in Sulzano, one of Lake Iseo’s most laidback villages, and feel time slow down. You’ll be in the perfect spot to hop on the little ferry that shuttles across to the islet of Monte Isola and its hilltop 16th-century sanctuary and wooded trails.

Hotel Palme & Suite

  • Garda, Lake Como, Italy
  • 28 August 2025
  • Half board
  • Gatwick

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Explore Sardinia’s southern coast

Su Giudeu bay in Chia, south SardiniaSu Giudeu bay in Chia, south Sardinia

A world away from the glitzy Costa Smeralda on Sardinia’s northern coast, the island’s southern coast has mile after mile of long sandy beaches to go with alluring villages and fascinating historical sights.

West of the island’s capital Cagliari – itself worth a visit – you’ll find a string of small towns and villages along with their neighbouring beaches. Chia has some of the prettiest sandy beaches in Sardinia, and it’s very tempting to stop there. But make the effort to visit the compelling archaeological park at Nora near Pula and walk in the footsteps of ancient Romans and Phoenicians.

Myo Hotel Rocce Sarde

  • San Pantaleo, Sardinia, Italy
  • 6 May 2025
  • Bed & breakfast
  • Gatwick

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Take the boat to green Venice

A view of a canal and greenery on Saint Erasmus island, VeniceA view of a canal and greenery on Saint Erasmus island, Venice

When the crowds in Venice get too much, and even the islands of Murano and Burano aren’t enough of an escape, discover Venice’s green heart on the island of Sant’Erasmo. A 30-minute ferry ride takes you to this island garden of Venice, which grows fruit and vegetables that end up in Rialto market among other places.

Hire a bike and cycle through vineyards, orchards and farms producing delicious honey. And when you want to relax, head to Sant’Erasmo’s sandy beach on its southern coast. With a choice of guesthouses, you can even stay a night or two.

Rosa Salva Hotel

  • Venice, Venetian Riviera, Italy
  • 18 February 2026
  • Room only
  • Stansted

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Swim in Lake Trasimeno

An aerial view of Lake Trasimeno in ItalyAn aerial view of Lake Trasimeno in Italy

If you’re finding nearby Perugia too busy, hop on the bus to Umbria’s biggest lake, Trasimeno, and chill out for a few days. Your best bet for a base is cute little Castiglione del Lago on a promontory on the western shore. There’s a clutch of decent restaurants among the terracotta- and ochre-coloured houses in its compact centre, after which you can head to one of the summertime beach bars.

The lake is only about 6m (20ft) in depth, so the water is wonderfully warm for swimming. There’s a sandy beach on the town’s southern side, handily located next to a public lido.

Go wild on Sicily’s eastern coast

A coastal walking train in the Vendicari Nature Reserve (Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari) in SicilyA coastal walking train in the Vendicari Nature Reserve (Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari) in Sicily

Southeast Sicily is rich in architectural marvels – think of baroque beauties such as Siracusa, Noto and Ragusa. But head to the eastern coast just south of Noto to discover how nature can hold its own.

There’s so much within the Vendicari Nature Reserve that you’ll want more than one visit. First there’s a series of soft sandy beaches backed by large bird reserves where you can spot herons, egrets and terns along hiking trails.

Look out for the tall terracotta columns known as the Tonnara of Vendicari, harking back to the days when tuna was caught and processed here for centuries.

Come in the autumn for the glorious sight of flamingos.

Hotel Del Centro

  • Palermo, Sicily, Italy
  • 20 March 2025
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  • Luton

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Aim high in the Three Peaks Nature Park

A view across a mountain lake in the Three Peaks Nature Park (Tre Cime di Lavaredo) in ItalyA view across a mountain lake in the Three Peaks Nature Park (Tre Cime di Lavaredo) in Italy

While the Dolomites around Cortina d’Ampezzo and Val Gardena are legendary among skiers and hikers, there’s another natural wonder just to the east near the Austrian border.

The Three Peaks Nature Park – Tre Cime in Italian and Drei Zinnen by the region’s German-speaking population – have a trio of pretty impressive peaks. These soaring granite mountains nearly reach 3,000m and are a magnet for climbers and hikers.

But the park has its gentler side too, with a vast network of cycling trails to go with lush pastures and meadows as well as the clear waters of the very inviting Lago di Landro.

There’s also a cable car ready to whisk you to greater heights if you can’t face the uphill climb.

Head south to Calabria’s beaches

An aerial view of the two bays of Capo Vaticano in Calabria, ItalyAn aerial view of the two bays of Capo Vaticano in Calabria, Italy

While Puglia hogs the spotlight, rugged Calabria is the unsung beauty of southern Italy. There’s a dizzying choice of beaches along the Tyrrhenian and Ionian coasts – sandy, rocky, tiny coves and long stretches of sand.

One of the most appealing is Capo Vaticano on the Tyrrhenian coast, not far from the equally alluring town of Tropea. Steep, granite cliffs covered in prickly pear rise from clear blue waters, with one sandy beach after another tucked into the coves.

If you don’t mind clambering over low rocks and wading into the water, you could have the furthest beach practically to yourself.

Sail away to Procida

Colourful traditional houses in the Old town port of Procida island, ItalyColourful traditional houses in the Old town port of Procida island, Italy

There’s plenty of ferry traffic from Naples to Capri and Ischia, but little Procida doesn’t get nearly the amount of attention its busy neighbours get. That’s good news for people who want to stroll around the island’s pretty pastel-coloured ports, especially the picturesque Marina Corricella.

Unless you’re there during the month of August, you won’t find the crowds on the long sandy beaches at Chiaiolella in the southern part of the island. If you really want to get away from it all, cross the bridge that connects Procida to Isola di Vivara, the remnant of a volcanic crater that’s now a nature reserve.

Watch the Mille Miglia in Viterbo

An aerial view of Viterbo city in ItalyAn aerial view of Viterbo city in Italy

Every June, the Italian countryside between Brescia and Rome roars with the sound of hundreds of vintage sports cars taking part in the Mille Miglia road race. It’s a fantastic spectacle, this glittering collection of vintage Ferraris, Alfa Romeos and other gorgeous cars made before 1957.

There are countless vantage points along the route as the cars trundle through some of Italy’s loveliest cities, including Florence, Parma and Modena. Evade the crowds by planting yourself in the Lazio town of Viterbo, whose medieval quarter makes a beautiful backdrop to the parade of classic cars.

Discover Sicily’s wild island of Marettimo

A view of fishing boats in Marettimo in ItalyA view of fishing boats in Marettimo in Italy

Go west – really far west – to the Egadi Islands off the north-west coast of Sicily and you’ll be closer to Tunisia than to mainland Italy. Marettimo is the furthest and the quietest – one village, no proper hotels and only a handful of cars. It’s Sicily at its most rugged.

There’s more than a hint of North Africa in the blue and white houses that cluster around the little port. Marettimo is tiny, yet still manages to fit in a Norman castle, an ancient Roman house and a Byzantine chapel – not to mention unspoilt beaches and a sense of time standing still.

Splendid la Torre

  • Mondello, Sicily, Italy
  • 4 April 2025
  • Bed & breakfast
  • Gatwick

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Explore the forgotten Italian Riviera in Liguria

An aerial view over the village of Alassio on the Italian RivieraAn aerial view over the village of Alassio on the Italian Riviera

Some parts of the Italian Riviera have never gone out of fashion – particularly the villages of Portofino and the Cinque Terre east of Liguria’s capital, Genoa. But head west and you come across a string of beach resorts where tourists are vastly outnumbered by Italians.

Start in Albenga, with an attractive medieval quarter and 4km (2.5 miles) of beaches. Carry on to Alassio, which has one of the most inviting beaches along the coast.

Near neighbour Laigueglia is even more charming, its beachfront backed by colourful townhouses in typically Ligurian colours of ochre and terracotta with green shutters. It’s a far cry from the glossy yachts that come and go from glamorous Portofino.

See another side of ancient Rome

Archaeological site of Ostia Antica in Lazio, ItalyArchaeological site of Ostia Antica in Lazio, Italy

Rather than follow the crowds to Pompeii and Herculaneum, take a 40-minute train from Rome to Ostia Antica. What used to be Rome’s ancient port is now a wonderfully preserved archaeological site that gives a vivid glimpse into Roman life around the 4th century AD. Even though it’s so close to Rome, it’s a surprisingly low-key attraction.

Stroll along the ancient streets past old baths, houses, temples and even restaurants, where you’ll see many mosaics still intact. The large theatre is now used for summertime concerts and plays in what is a truly magical setting.

Hotel Twenty One

  • Rome, Rome Area, Italy
  • 27 August 2025
  • Bed & breakfast
  • Manchester

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