Alternative Italian city breaks: 10 cities to visit after Rome

1. Bologna

Often overlooked in the dash to reach Florence or Venice, Bologna is one of Italy’s most appealing cities. You won’t go hungry in the home of tortelloni, lasagne and tagliatelle al ragù bolognese (which has nothing to do with the made-up dish of spaghetti bolognese).

Follow the almost 40km (24 miles) of porticoes that wind through the historic centre and lead you to the splendid Piazza Maggiore. Just off the square is the medieval Quadrilatero district, full of food market stalls and convivial cafés.

Where to stay in Bologna

Ancient and modern blend beautifully at Phi Hotel Bologna – Al Cappello Rosso, with contemporary rooms in a 650-year-old townhouse seconds away from Piazza Maggiore. Even closer is Art Hotel Commercianti, with stylish rooms in a 12th-century former guildhall. Inspired by all that wonderful produce in Bologna’s food markets? Book an apartment with a kitchen in Residence Le Porte, a few minutes’ walk from Bologna’s famous two towers.

2. Turin

Turin has a decidedly regal air about it. Set against the snow-capped peaks of the Italian Alps, you’ll find UNESCO-listed Savoy palaces overlooking broad piazze (squares), elegant boulevards lined with baroque architecture and arcaded streets filled with swish boutiques and grand old coffeehouses.

There are plenty of green spaces too, with large landscaped gardens along the banks of the River Po. Fans of The Italian Job can visit the famous rooftop test track at the old Fiat factory, now redesigned as the Lingotto entertainment and shopping complex.

Where to stay in Turin

Handy for Porta Nuova railway station, elegant Turin Palace Hotel also tempts you with its rooftop terrace and large spa, or if you want to try some self-catering, base yourself in one of the smart apartments overlooking Piazza Vittorio Veneta at Piazza Vittorio Suites. NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina in the lively university quarter is another great choice, where not one but two rooftop terraces await.

3. Genoa

While visitors to Liguria usually head straight to Cinque Terre or Portofino, it’s worth stopping in the regional capital for a few days of fabulous food and culture.

Get your fill of pesto and focaccia in Genoa, home of both of these delicious Italian staples. You’ll find plenty of hole-in-the-wall cafés squeezed into the Centro Storico, where medieval alleyways called caruggi invite aimless wanderings.

It’s a hilly city, made easier with lifts and funiculars. Take the art nouveau lift up to Spianetta Castelletto hilltop park for views of the city and the sea, before heading down to the revamped Porto Antico and its buzzing bars and restaurants.

Where to stay in Genoa

Overlooking Piazza delle Vigne, Hotel Palazzo Grillo has sleek modern rooms in a sumptuous 16th-century palace, with breakfast on a sunny roof terrace. Or, stay at the NH Collection Genova Marina, designed by The Shard’s creator Renzo Piano, to be in the midst of all the action in Porto Antico and close to the aquarium and Galata Maritime Museum.

4. Naples

More than just a jumping-off point for trips to Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast and Capri, Naples has a raffish charm of its own. Its atmospheric streets hum with energy, entirely at odds with the dignified air given off by the city’s baroque palaces and castles.

And then there’s the food, of course – part of the fun is going on the hunt for Italy’s best pizza and Neapolitan pasta dishes including spaghetti alle vongole.

Soak up the seaside ambience of the Lungomare promenade before exploring the streets made famous in Elena Ferrante’s bestselling 'My Brilliant Friend' novels.

Where to stay in Naples

The roof terrace is enough of a draw at stylish B&B Casa d’Anna, where the welcome is as warm as the interiors. It’s also handy for the archaeological museum and Palazzo della Spagnolo. At Bellini House B&B, you’ll enjoy a peaceful walled garden while still being in the heart of the historical centre near the Teatro Bellini. Its sister B&B around the corner, Dante House, mixes contemporary with classic design in its six rooms, all of which have kitchenettes.

5. Catania

The constantly smouldering Mount Etna – the highest volcano in Europe – towers over Catania, adding a sense of drama to this lively UNESCO-listed city.

Among its many baroque palaces and charming piazzas, look out for the ruins of the ancient Roman theatre. At the at the fish market, La Pescheria, stallholders play their boisterous part in an unlikely street theatre, hawking their catches of the day, while in the lesser-known Piazza Carlo Alberto market, colourful fruit and veg jostle for attention among stalls laden with clothes and kitchenware.

When you want a break from the city, chill out on the 18km (11 miles) of sandy beach that stretches along Catania’s southern side.

Where to stay in Catania

About 200m from the fish market is Asmundo di Gisira, a 17th-century palazzo in which local and international artists have made specially commissioned artworks. For delightfully old-fashioned charm – including a romantic, flower-filled breakfast garden – book one of the traditionally styled rooms at Liberty Hotel, just a few minutes’ walk from the centre.

6. Palermo

Sicily’s capital has an intoxicating mix of cultures thanks to its former rulers, including the ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs and Normans. It’s found in everything from architecture to the street food that has become one of Palermo’s major draws.

For an exotic foodie city break in Italy, check out the Arab vibe in the souk-like food stalls at Mercato del Capo. In the Kalsa quarter, food becomes a spectacle as giant barbecues grill fresh calamari, fish and prawns. 

Once you’ve explored the streets and palaces, take the bus to the sandy beach at Mondello just up the coast.

Where to stay in Palermo

Foodies will want to rent one of the spacious, high-ceilinged apartments in Palazzo Planeta, which is a ten-minute walk from the Capo food market in Palermo’s centre and is owned by the Planeta family of winemakers. In the heart of the baroque quarter in the buzzing La Cala district, BB22 Charming Rooms & Apartments is not just charming but quietly luxurious and elegantly designed.

7. Milan

Italy’s style capital is smart and classy, with arty districts complementing its superior shopping. Marvel at the magnificent Duomo and the chic boutiques of the glass-domed Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, then head to the Navigli district around the Darsena marina. Here, towpaths in the 17th-century urban waterway network are filled with vibrant cafés and artists’ studios.

Milan isn’t all about shopping and gallery-gazing, though. It’s the undisputed king of the aperitivo, that wonderfully civilised habit of offering copious amounts of gorgeous free snacks during your early evening drink. Just graze at your own peril – it’s all too easy to forget to save room for dinner.

Where to stay in Milan

Nhow Milano embodies the spirit of the Tortona district, a former industrial area that’s been transformed into a hip, fun neighbourhood near the Navigli canal. The design is fantastically futuristic and full of quirky touches that extend to the funky roof terrace. Right in the centre of the Navigli district is Maison Borella, a smart boutique hotel with canal views and a cosy courtyard terrace.

8. Perugia

Perugia has a young soul for a city that’s so steeped in history, thanks in large part to its huge university population. Within its historic centre is one medieval marvel after another, along with 15th-century palaces and sprawling squares including Piazza IV Novembre.

Cosmopolitan Perugia is perfect for a romantic Italian city break, especially during the summertime Umbria Jazz festival, when music fills the squares during outdoor concerts.

If you have a sweet tooth, don’t miss the massive chocolate festival, Eurochocolate, which takes over the city between 15 and 24 November.

Where to stay in Perugia

Have the shops and restaurants of Corso Vannucci on your doorstep when you stay in one of the elegantly minimalist rooms at the 18th-century Locanda della Posta, some of which come with hot tubs. Enter a lush world just a few minutes’ walk from the centre at Al Giardino di Alice, a cosy B&B with an alluringly luxuriant garden where you can completely relax.

9. Parma

There’s ham and cheese, and then there’s prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano. Both come from this handsome city west of Bologna, where food is as embedded into the culture as Parma’s opulent opera house and its magnificent Romanesque cathedral.

Like Milan, the aperitivo hour is an important part of day, as is the early evening stroll known as the passeggiata. Do both along Strada Farini, where inviting cafés are squeezed in among arcaded ochre-coloured townhouses.

Where to stay in Parma

You can’t beat Palazzo dalla Rosa Prati for location – it’s right on Piazza Duomo. Owned by the same family since the 15th century, this beautiful B&B has charmingly traditional rooms and apartments. For an affordable five-star experience, book the sophisticated Grand Hotel de la Ville for a dose of refined minimalism in a formerly industrial area that’s been transformed by Renzo Piano.

10. Trieste

Quirks of history and geography make Trieste one of the most multicultural cities in Italy. Here the Austrian, Italian and Slavic worlds mingle in its architecture, food and customs.

Explore the narrow streets of the medieval old town starting at the hilltop Castello di San Giusto, near the ancient Roman Forum. Then, find yourself in Vienna when you enter the Borgo Teresiano district, created by the Habsburgs when Trieste was a major seaport in the Austro-Hungarian Empire.

You can’t miss the enormous Piazza Unità d’Italia, which is almost on the scale of Venice’s St Mark’s Square.

Where to stay in Trieste

In a central spot near Piazza Unità yet down a relatively quiet street, L’Albero Nascosto is full of character, exposed beam ceilings and antiques mixing with modern furnishings. The hotel also offers five apartments in separate buildings, one with sea views and a balcony. Overlooking the seafront near Piazza Unità is Savoia Excelsior Palace, a Trieste landmark and one of the most elegant of the Habsburg-era hotels – its restaurant is worth a visit too. You’ll find Palace Suite, whose refined modern apartments are behind an impressively opulent art nouveau façade, on one of central Trieste’s pedestrianised shopping streets about ten minutes’ away.