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Alternative Italian city break: Why visit Palermo?

Photo of Caroline HowleyPhoto of Caroline Howley
By Caroline Howley

4 October 2019 | Updated 25 October 20247 min read

Panoramic view of Palermo skyline in Sicily

Cannoli shops and cocktail bars sit alongside breathtaking churches on the marble streets of Palermo.

Everywhere you look, magnificent UNESCO-certified architecture enchants and the unique hallmarks of Palermo’s status as the ‘most invaded Mediterranean city’ can be discovered at almost every corner.

Meander through the narrow backstreets and you’ll find spectacular neoclassical fountains, buzzing street food bazaars and vibrant night markets where revellers dance until dawn on the cobbles.

Despite having so much to offer, the Sicilian capital often slips under the radar as a European city break as, until the early 1990s, the city was in the grip of the mafia.

Since then, a gargantuan effort has been made to regenerate it to its former splendour, and tourists are quickly taking note. Here’s why you should join them.

It’s cheap compared to other Italian cities

Saint Domenico square (Piazza San Domenico) in Palermo, Sicily, ItalySaint Domenico square (Piazza San Domenico) in Palermo, Sicily, Italy

One of Palermo’s biggest trump cards is its affordability. Compared to the Italian big-hitters of Rome, Milan and Venice, the city is refreshingly cheap.

You can expect a three-course meal for two in a mid-range restaurant to cost around £40 in the Sicilian capital, while you’d pay over 50% more at the equivalent in Milan. Domestic beer generally costs less too (we’re talking £4 pints), and given Palermo’s awesome street food scene – more on that later – eating out can be as cheap as you like.

It’s not hard to find a great deal on city centre accommodation either – something Rome and Venice struggle to compete with. A quick search on TravelSupermarket found four-star city break deals from just £229pp for three nights this November.

Even better? Getting around the city on a budget is a breeze. Exploring Palermo on foot is easy and public transport is cheap and reliable. A one-way ticket on the Trinacria Express train from the airport to Palermo will set you back just €5.90, while a single bus ticket costs a mere €1.40.

It has unique UNESCO-certified architecture and heritage

A view of the Cathedral of Palermo in SicilyA view of the Cathedral of Palermo in Sicily

Palermo’s magnificent architecture is the first thing you’ll notice upon arriving in this ancient city; wandering among the polished marbles and exquisite plazas feels like an Italian dream.

The oft-invaded city, founded by the Phoenicians in 734 BCE, has been part of numerous empires, from the Roman and Byzantine to the Arabic and Norman, and signs of this unique heritage are myriad in its stunning buildings. Indeed, the city’s singular Arab-Norman heritage has earned a UNESCO crown.

The Sicilian capital and its surrounds is the only place in the world able to boast Norman-Arab-Byzantine architecture, such as the Norman Palace’s dazzling Palatine Chapel. Combining Norman architecture, Byzantine mosaics, and Arabic arches and scripts to truly breathtaking effect, this gilded chapel is by far the best example of the multicultural style that dominated 12th-century Sicily.

The Norman Palace itself has incredible historical credentials, being the oldest royal residence in Europe and the current seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly. Make time to wander through its richly decorated rooms filled with opulent historical treasures.

Meanwhile, the striking 12th-century cathedral was built on the site of an earlier Byzantine basilica and spectacularly blends neoclassical architecture with Norman, Moorish, gothic and baroque. If you’re up for a climb, ascend the winding staircase to the roof, where you can get up close to the great dome and enjoy spectacular views across Palermo.

You’ll find vibrant day markets that pay homage to Palermo’s port heritage

Fresh vegetables at famous Ballaro market in Palermo, Sicily, ItalyFresh vegetables at famous Ballaro market in Palermo, Sicily, Italy

Stallholders yell from behind vast glass counters stuffed with thick cuts of meat and fresh seafood, and men with trays push cups of juicy pineapple into your hands. An abundance of gargantuan aubergines – five for one euro – take pride of place on the colourful fruit and veg stalls.

Overhead, a multi-coloured canopy of awnings and umbrellas shades patrons from the scorching Sicilian sun, every now and then breaking to reveal a spectacular dome from one of the many magnificent churches nearby. Knock-off underwear and t-shirts spill from shops lining the winding path through the labyrinthine market; diners sit in the shade at the busy cafes, feasting on fresh seafood and traditional Sicilian street dishes.

This assault on the senses is Ballarò: one of Palermo’s many street markets.

Palermo’s markets are more than a social hub where locals congregate to shop; a hallmark of the city’s legacy as a commercial port, they are a piece of noisy, living history. The atmosphere is less ‘elegant European street market’, more ‘vibrant North African bazaar’ – a tell-tale sign of Sicily’s place in the Arabic and Byzantine empires.

As well as Ballarò, you can try your hand at haggling for herbs and handicrafts at the famed La Vucciria (translated as ‘hubbub’), a 700-year-old market that flows through Centro Storico and side streets surrounding Piazza San Domenico.

Meanwhile, Mercato di Capo is renowned for its local delicacies, and the lesser-known mini-casbah of Borgo Vecchio attracts younger shoppers with its variety of stalls.

Most markets run from dawn, when the fishermen arrive with their catches, until mid-afternoon. Arrive early for the freshest ingredients and the best deals.

It has an intriguing mafia history

Early morning view of the Palermo skyline with its pastel yellow houses and the dome and bell tower of its cathedralEarly morning view of the Palermo skyline with its pastel yellow houses and the dome and bell tower of its cathedral

There’s a reason Palermo – despite its myriad of cultural treasures – has only recently become a popular tourist destination. For decades, the city was in the grip of the mafiosi, who infiltrated its politics and ran its streets, making it a dangerous place to visit, never mind live.

However, in 1992, Mayor Leoluca Orlando led a crackdown on crime, arresting mafiosi and seizing mafia money, using it to elevate the inner city back to its former splendour.

Those interested in this dark chapter of Palermo’s history will find plenty to explore. Anti-mafia monuments and art installations have sprung up around the city, reflecting the prevailing sentiment of its residents, and anti-mafia tours provide an easy way to delve into the subject, providing an intriguing new perspective on this stunning city.

It has mouth-watering cuisine and lively night markets

Maqueda Street with outdoor restaurant tables at night time in Palermo, SicilyMaqueda Street with outdoor restaurant tables at night time in Palermo, Sicily

Good food is easy to find in Palermo: traditional restaurants serving Sicilian delicacies, from pasta with sardines to arancini rice balls, line the streets, while you’ll find a gelateria serving sweet cannoli every few steps.

Contemporary upmarket restaurants dot the magnificent plazas too, where you can feast on risotto or gourmet seafood under the welcome shade of large umbrellas.

Start the day like a Sicilian with a triplo sandwich (a delicacy containing potato, fried chickpeas and – of course – aubergine), and later head to the backstreets for classic pizza at startlingly cheap prices. Palermo has one of the best street food scenes in Europe, so prepare to fill up on pesce cicireddu (tiny fried fish) panelle (chickpea fritters) and sfincione (a pizza-type bread).

You’ll also find a large range of hip bars, where you can sit out on the unendingly picturesque streets and enjoy happy hour cocktails or wines. After the bars close at around midnight, the street markets explode into life and locals flock to the back streets to continue the party.

There are Roman ruins and beaches on your doorstep

Aerial view of Mondello Beach located near Palermo, SicilyAerial view of Mondello Beach located near Palermo, Sicily

If you can tear yourself away from the glorious streets of Palermo, there are a number of attractions just a short drive or train ride away.

Spend a day or two relaxing on the famous Mondello beach – a half-hour drive from Palermo – or opt for beautiful Cefalù, an hour and 15 minutes away by car. The beaches attract many tourists and locals, but the sand is lined with beach bars, dotted with sun-loungers, and the sea is beautifully warm – perfect if you’re looking to add some beach time to your city break.

If you’re in the mood for an uphill hike, take the 20-minute train ride to Santa Flavia and walk up to the Roman ruins of Solunto. The hike takes around 30 minutes in the heat, but it’s worth it. Standing among the ancient ruins, you’re privy to a breathtaking 360-degree view of the peninsula, taking in the sparkling turquoise waters, the surrounding greenery and mountains and pretty Santa Flavia itself.

*All prices correct as of 24 October 2024. Cost of living data taken from Numbeo.

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