Marrakech holidays

Place des Épices is an entire souk dedicated to selling spices, a heady introduction to Marrakech’s food scene. You’ll find couscous, tagine and mint tea on menus everywhere, but there’s also a chic side to the city’s dining. And while there’s nothing sophisticated about dinner at Jemaa El-Fnaa central square, it’s definitely not a meal you want to miss.

Even its biggest fans agree Marrakech can be intense, but there are serene spots to catch your breath. Shake off the medina’s madness in The Secret Garden, a palatial oasis, or stroll among the cacti of the Majorelle Gardens, a vivid artists’ retreat.

To turn the relaxation levels up another notch, a Moroccan hammam is just the ticket. There are many hammam baths across the city, each promising rest and rejuvenation with an indulgent cleanse and a soothing massage.

If you’re happy to pack a few extra layers for chilly evenings, a winter break means fewer crowds. The average temperature is around 13C, and if you plan ahead, you can often score a cheap all-inclusive package.

The largest market square in Africa, Jemaa El-Fnaa is awe-inspiring, intoxicating and occasionally overwhelming. At the heart of Marrakech, the huge square is packed with snake charmers, soothsayers and henna-tattoo artists.

The place really comes alive at dusk. Locals arrive for a stroll and food stalls set up alongside acrobats, traditional Berber musicians and other entertainers. Take a deep breath, grab a seat at a lantern-lit grill and admire the nightly carnival of chaos.

Bahia Palace

Translated as “brilliance” in Arabic, Bahia Palace lives up to its name. Si Moussa, the chamberlain of Sultan Hassan I, commissioned the fantastic gardens and 150 intricately decorated rooms of the grand 19th-century palace. His son, who ruled Morocco for a time, added extravagant touches – including an entire wing for his wives and mistresses.

When you visit, you’ll see elegant archways, painted wooden doors and ceilings and marble-tiled courtyards that stay true to traditional Islamic architecture.

Souks

Marrakech’s bustling souks feel like they’re from another time. In the covered marketplaces and winding lanes, you can pick up rugs and crockery, leather goods and lamps.

While the promises of a “good price” from every storekeeper can get tiring, you’ll have more fun if you embrace the experience. Step into a makeshift shop, accept a glass of piping hot mint tea and haggle your heart out.

Majorelle Garden

This perfectly manicured garden is an oasis of serenity. French painter Jacques Majorelle spent 40 years creating the garden for his friend Yves Saint Laurent, the fashion designer. He weaved paths through bamboo groves and past bubbling streams and desert plants to the garden’s most striking sight: a bright-blue studio surrounded by tall cacti (a favourite for Instagrammers).

There is also a Berber Museum, focusing on the culture of Morocco’s original peoples.

Hammams

After a day of sightseeing, unwind like the locals in a traditional Moroccan hammam. Part steam room, part body rub, the idea in a hammam is to open up your pores to cleanse the skin.

The hammam is also an important social ritual in Morocco, where you can catch up with friends or family. Marrakech has lots of hammam baths, from no-frills options where you wash and exfoliate yourself in the company of others to plush spa-style pampering.

Stay in the medina for a short city break and the children will love the souks, snake charmers and the experience of having a henna tattoo in Jemaa El-Fnaa.

For travellers on a budget

In the historic medina, Kennaria is a small central neighbourhood that’s great if you’re watching your pennies. Backpacker hostels and affordable hotels offer cheap stays, and family-run riads with balconies around courtyards, pools and fountains create an authentic experience at a good price. And you’ll only be a six-minute walk from the central square and walking distance of Bahia Palace and Koutoubia Mosque.

Kennaria’s cafes and restaurants have rooftop terraces serving inexpensive meals with million-dollar views. It’s also known for having more hammams than any other Marrakech neighbourhood.

For food and drink

Jemaa El-Fnaa is hard to beat for a foodie experience. Stay in an elegant riad or palace-like hotel in the medina and head to the square for dinner. You’ll find up to 100 food stalls competing to tantalise your taste buds. Choose from dishes such as pastille (Moroccan phyllo-pastry pie), flavourful merguez sausages and grilled meats. If you’re feeling adventurous, give sheep brains and stewed snails a try.

Beyond the medina walls, restaurants all over the city serve Moroccan classics and fine French cuisine. Many riads also offer guests tasty home-cooked tagines.

For nightlife

A ten-minute drive from the medina, Gueliz is one of Marrakech’s trendiest neighbourhoods. There are shopping malls, galleries and spa hotels here, but it’s the bars and clubs that make this the place for night owls. While drinking alcohol certainly isn’t encouraged in Morocco, in Gueliz, you’ll find everything from casual pubs and wine bars to upmarket cocktail lounges.

West of the medina, Hivernage is another cool spot for a drink and a dance. There are swanky chain hotels and nightclubs that are just as chic.

For culture

Staying in the medina is one of the best ways to soak up Marrakech’s culture. Climb to a rooftop patio for a mint tea or find a moment of peace outside the elegant Koutoubia Mosque. Wander the narrow streets and see local handicrafts for sale in the souks.

Several of the city’s most important museums are here, including Dar Si Said Museum with its collection of Moroccan antiques and artefacts and the magnificent Ben Youssef Madrasa college.