5 December 20245 min read
As I turned yet another corner in the labyrinthine medina of Fez, I realised I was hopelessly lost. The narrow, winding alleyways seemed designed to defy all sense of direction, each twist throwing up a new sensory experience. The smell of spices and leather hung thick in the air, mingling with the sounds of craftsmen at work and the nearby call to prayer.
Wandering through Fez’s medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, truly feels like stepping back in time. With over 9,000 alleys that mock modern mapping, it’s a place where getting lost isn’t just likely – it’s an essential part of the fun.
Wandering deeper into the medieval maze, I found myself at the 900-year-old tannery, where the real sensory overload began.
The rhythmic sound of workers stomping in large stone vats filled the air. With dyes of every colour, the sight resembled a giant artist's palette. But it’s the smell that hits you hardest – a mixture of pigeon poo, cow pee and other “natural” ingredients used in the centuries-old tanning process.
The stench didn't put me off haggling for a beautifully crafted black leather satchel, a souvenir that would stink out my bedroom cupboard for years to come before finally fading enough to wear it in public.
A whiff of that pongy leather bag still transports me straight back to my travels around Morocco but particularly to Fez.
It's a city that demands a bit more from its visitors – a sense of adventure, a willingness to get lost and perhaps a strong stomach for those unique tanneries. But for those who are up for an adventure, Fez rewards you with experiences that linger in your memory (and sometimes your cupboard) long after you've returned home.
Whether you're a Morocco first-timer or looking to delve deeper after a taste of Marrakech, here’s why Fez should be your next city break.
Fez feels authentic from the moment you arrive. The old city (Fes el-Bali) is the world's largest car-free urban area, preserving a way of life that's remained largely unchanged for centuries. Walking through its streets, you'll feel like you've stepped into a living, breathing history book.
Its medina is the real deal too. A sprawling, labyrinthine world unto itself, where daily life unfolds much as it has for a millennium, it’s still filled with tanners, metalworkers, bakers and weavers practising their crafts.
Getting lost here is all part of the experience. Fez's narrow, winding alleys resist all attempts at easy orientation, leading you to hidden corners where tourist footprints are rare.
Riad El Ghalia
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Fez is home to the University of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 859 AD and considered one of the oldest existing, continually operating educational institutions in the world.
The city's intellectual heritage is palpable, with stunning madrasas (religious schools) around every corner. The archways of the mosques and madrasas are particularly striking, their horseshoe shapes adorned with mesmerising geometric patterns and calligraphy.
The Bou Inania Madrasa, with its grand minaret and ornate courtyard, is a prime example of this artistic mastery. Its walls are a canvas of zellige mosaic tilework, its doors richly carved and its mihrab (prayer niche) a masterpiece of design.
Similarly, the Al-Attarine Madrasa showcases exquisite plasterwork and tilework that will have you marvel at the skill of 14th-century craftsmen.
Marrakech may be known for its luxury dining, but Fez holds its own as a top culinary destination. From sizzling street food to elegant restaurants, you'll find flavours here that easily rival the offerings of its glitzier cousin.
Don't miss the chance to try a steaming bowl of bessara (fava bean soup) from a street vendor. It's a local specialty that'll warm you from the inside out.
For a breather from the medina hustle, head to Dar Rafti's rooftop. This stylish Moroccan house dishes up local ingredients with traditional flair and a side of city views. Or slip into Restaurant La Cave where European finesse meets Moroccan taste – their soups and tagines are terrific.
Fez’s medina thrums with energy, a whirlwind of sights, sounds and scents that can be just as overwhelming as it is mesmerising. But amidst the chaos, you'll find pockets of tranquillity that offer a welcome respite from the sensory overload.
Take Jnan Sbil, for instance – this lush, 19th-century garden is a verdant oasis in the heart of the city. With its towering palm trees, trickling fountains and fragrant orange groves, it's the perfect spot to catch your breath and recharge.
Beyond Jnan Sbil, you'll discover peaceful corners in many riads and smaller gardens scattered throughout the medina.
Barceló Fès Medina
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Fez pairs perfectly with a visit to Rabat, the country's capital city. The best part? You can easily travel between the two in under three hours thanks to Morocco's extensive rail network.
The train from Fez to Rabat is an experience in itself. You'll glide through rolling hills and fertile plains, getting a glimpse of Morocco's stunning countryside.
In Rabat, you can explore a different side of Morocco. This port city blends history and modernity, from the ancient Kasbah of the Udayas to the sleek Rabat-Salé tramway.
It's a cool, coastal counterpoint to Fez's medieval charm, letting you experience two distinct aspects of Moroccan culture in one trip.
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