Cuba car hire

All Cuba’s car hire companies are state-run, with no room for outsiders such as Hertz or Avis. The major agencies are Transutur and its sub-brands Rex and Cubacar, and Havanautos. Most vehicles are modern Asian or European models, although vintage American models and convertibles are also available on request.

All car hire agencies have desks at Havana’s airport, in the Centro Habana area, and at most major hotels like the Nacional, Capri, Plaza and newly-opened Gran Hotel Manzana. The same applies in Varadero’s resorts and bigger towns such as Santiago and Holguin. To book a rental car in Cuba, you will have to go direct to the company.

Hiring a car gets you to Cuba’s wild west where the world’s finest tobacco is grown on oxen-ploughed fields. The beautiful Viñales Valley has odd-looking limestone mountains that are excellent for rock climbing. Nearby, Las Cuevas de Santo Tomás is Cuba’s largest cave, with over 45km (28 miles) of connected tunnels and galleries.

Set deep in Sierra Maestra, La Comandancia de la Plata was Fidel Castro’s guerrilla headquarters where huts and escape routes are still pretty much in the same condition as the ‘50s. You’ll need to drive to the nearest village, Santo Domingo, and hire a guide for this excursion.

Most agencies allow you to book a car online in advance and at a cheaper rate. Prices are typically cheapest between September to October during the low season, although it isn’t uncommon for agencies to overbook, meaning your pre-booked car may not be available upon your arrival.

A standard rental car will cost you somewhere between CUC45 (£35) and CUC85 (£70) per day, with unlimited mileage. Insurance is normally paid additionally, often in cash, and charged at CUC10-20 (£8-15) per day.

Cuba is atrociously signposted and GPS devices are forbidden, so a good map is essential. Car hire companies will provide one, but consider purchasing the superior International Travel Maps Cuba, or the hard-to-find Guía de Carreteras in advance.

The roads in Havana are in good condition, as is the two-lane Carretera Central, which links to the island’s eastern side, and the 6 to 8-lane National Highway, which serves the west. Watch out for horse carts, wobbly cyclists, hosts of hitchhikers and death-wish chickens. Avoid driving in rural areas or on motorways at night as they are not well lit.

1. Rental cars are usually filled up with ‘gasoline especial’ petrol, not ‘regular’. Especial costs around CUC$1.30 (£1) per litre.
2. In Havana and other cities, traffic lights are commonly located on the far corners of crossings – so be very careful.
3. If you have a minor accident, go immediately to a police station and get a signed report saying what happened and (if true) stating that you are not responsible for the damage.