La Gomera holidays

Wander around the sleepy towns and tourist-free beaches and you’ll see why La Gomera has been dubbed “the island lost in time”. That laid-back spirit, which originally attracted bohemians in the 1960s, is still very much a big part of its charm today.

Low-key doesn’t mean boring though – the history and culture of the island is as unique as they come. Take Silbo Gomero (also known as EL Silbo) for example. The native whistling language of La Gomera is said to have originated with farmers communicating across the island’s vast ravines, and the pre-Hispanic language can still be heard today.

Love wine? La Gomera is a treat. The island has almost perfect conditions for winemaking, thanks to an abundance of sunshine and its extraordinary volcanic soil. White wine grape Forastera Gomera is the specialty. Join locals in pairing a crisp glass with a piece of toast spread with almogrote, a pungent paste made from hard cheese.

If you’re a keen hiker, spring and late autumn are the best times to visit La Gomera – just remember to pack some layers and a rain jacket. Cheap holidays to La Gomera are more common during these shoulder seasons, too.

If you’re in the mood for a party, La Gomera celebrates several fiestas. In April, the annual San Marcos festival in Agulo sees daredevils jump over bonfires to test their courage. And every five years in October, the whole island pays tribute to the Virgin of Guadalupe for Bajada de la Virgen. The next celebrations will be in 2028.

The last Ice Age didn’t reach the Canary Islands so, while green laurel forests froze away elsewhere in Europe, this 4,000-hectare national park is one of the continent’s last survivors. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the forest covers 10% of La Gomera around its centre and highest peak.

There is excellent hiking and cycling opportunities for all levels within the park, as well as plenty of viewpoints. The cooling mist that descends over the dense, damp forest only adds to its mystique.

Torre del Conde

In a well-kept park in the quaint capital of San Sebastián, Torre del Conde is considered to be the best-preserved military building on La Gomera.

Inside the 15th-century Gothic-style stone tower, you can admire its architectural flourishes, including two-metre thick walls, and an exhibition of historical maps. The tower puts you within easy walking distance of the marina, as well as San Sebastián beach.

Mirador de Abrante

You’re spoilt for choice for dramatic lookouts in La Gomera, but Mirador de Abrante is arguably one of the best. Found in the north of the island, this viewpoint is perched at the top of near-vertical cliffs, towering 400m above the valley of Agulo. On a clear day, you can see Tenerife.

Have head for heights? Admire the view from the seven-metre glass walkway jutting out from the cliff.

Los Órganos Natural Monument

Shaped by Mother Nature, this fascinating geological formation – some 200m wide and 80m high – looks like a giant pipe organ carved into the cliff (hence its name, Los Órganos Natural Monument).

Only visible from the water, you’ll need to take a boat tour to get up close to these impressive columns. Most excursions leave from Valle Gran Rey or Playa de Santiago.

Dolphin and whale watching

The Atlantic waters around the Canary Islands abound in marine life; dolphins and whales are especially common just off La Gomera’s coast. Six species of dolphin are typical in La Gomera’s surrounds, with the Atlantic bottlenose dolphin the most common. Pilot and beaked whales also visit the coast.

Several companies offer boat expeditions that focus on sustainable practice, so you can spot these majestic beasts without disturbing them.

There are a few choices if you base yourselves on the coast, with San Sebastián, Valle Gran Rey and Playa Santiago all offering quiet beaches with calm waters.

Valle Gran Rey has several black-sand beaches and attracts the most holidaymakers. There’s a good choice of accommodation, and kids will enjoy watching performers on the seafront promenade. Wherever you stay, hiring a car will allow you to get around the island easily.

For travellers on a budget

Valle Gran Rey in the west and Playa Santiago in the south have a variety of cheap holiday options, especially if you’re after a self-catering apartment. This is also where you’ll find larger hotels, which may offer discounts to those visiting off season.

Rural hotels and small, family-run guesthouses called pensiones are also good options for travellers on a budget. Several can be found in Vallehermoso, a small town in the shadow of the giant Roque Cano rock. This area, in the lesser-visited northwest, is perfect if you want to hit hiking trails straight from your lodgings.

For food and drink

You’ll find hearty Canarian cuisine at most island restaurants, with the ubiquitous papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) and accompanying sauces on nearly every menu. San Sebastián, Playa Santiago and Valle Gran Rey have the biggest restaurant range, with the latter also hosting a few international options.

Wine lovers can try the local grapes all over the island. Terraced vineyards surround several small towns including Hermigua, which is located in a picturesque valley. Hermigua is also a good spot for local fare in friendly restaurants, where you’ll find island favourites including, of course, almogrote.

For nightlife

Traditional restaurants and beach shack-style bars are more common than nightclubs in La Gomera, but there are one or two energetic venues for those looking for a late night. Your best bet is the harbourside Las Vueltas area in Valle Gran Rey, which has a few bars with live music and DJ sets.

If you’re really keen to party, your best bet is heading off island to Tenerife, whose reputation for late-night revelry is well-established. The fastest ferries will have you there in 40 minutes, but you’ll have to wait until the next morning to get back.

For culture

The seaside capital San Sebastián embraces La Gomera’s laid-back air. Brightly coloured houses clamber up the hill from the port on the east coast and streets lined with cafés and shops end at shaded squares. The town is home to some of the island’s most important historical buildings, including the Torre del Conde and the house where explorer Christopher Columbus is said to have stayed before setting sail for the Americas.

On the west of the island, you can discover another of La Gomera’s traditions – pottery – in the small village of El Cercado.