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The greenest of the Canary Islands, La Palma’s spectacular mix of landscapes have earned it the nickname “La Isla Bonita” (The Beautiful Island). If you’re after a peaceful escape on a pristine natural paradise, a holiday to this Spanish jewel is an excellent choice.
From verdant forests and lush hillsides to stark volcanic craters and black-sand beaches, the picture-perfect scenery of La Palma is the drawcard for many explorers. The entire island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and its stunning landscapes are one of the main highlights of any trip here.
One of the best ways to see the natural sights is with a trekking pole and a pair of boots. La Palma boasts nearly 1,000 km of well-trodden walking trails interconnecting the entire island. From strolls through cooling pine forests to climbs up majestic peaks, there’s something to suit every level.
Another major draw are the volcanoes dotted around La Palma, and you can get close to several of the sleeping natural wonders and discover their impact on the island. Visit Volcán San Antonio to walk around the crater formed during eruptions in 1677 and enjoy uninterrupted ocean vistas from the summit, before peering over the rim into the belly of the beast.
While La Palma isn’t your typical beach break destination, there are stretches of coastline beyond the island’s green interior where you can enjoy the feeling of sand between your toes. Los Cancajos, on the east coast, has warm black sand and calm waters protected by a bay of volcanic rock.
After dark, La Palma’s nightlife is unrivalled – though not in the way you may think. As the world’s first Starlight Reserve, it’s one of the best places in the world to gaze up at sparkling stars during a clear night sky.
Like the other Canary Islands, La Palma’s climate is generally warm and sunny year-round.
You can expect to still be swimming in the sea in December or hiking in the middle of summer, with temperatures sitting between the late-teens and mid-20s throughout the year. During spring, you can see the island’s colourful flowers in bloom, while in winter you might spot snow on inland peaks.
The island’s microclimates mean you can travel from rainstorms and cloud cover in the centre to sunshine on the southern coastline within a couple of hours. If hiking in the national parks, be prepared for all weather conditions.
In February, Santa Cruz de la Palma, the capital, hosts Los Indianos (The Indians) carnival. Around 80,000 people from surrounding islands and mainland Spain transform the tranquil city in an explosion of talcum powder fights in the street.
Trekkers and outdoorsy folk are in for a treat on a La Palma holiday. There are routes taking in dense forests, sweeping valleys and volcanoes; black-sand beaches where you can take it easy; and night skies so clear you’ll long for evenings back-dropped by a sea of stars for years to come.
Caldera de Taburiente National Park
Covering over 4,500 hectares in the centre of the island, Caldera de Taburiente National Park is a walker’s paradise, with pine forests, river gorges and sites displaying ancient rock carvings. La Caldera de Taburiente is a five-mile erosion crater within towering walls of rock.
Take your pick from a variety of hiking routes, from easy one-hour circuits to challenging treks up steep inclines. The best views of the park and caldera are from Roque de los Muchachos, the island’s highest point.
Stargazing
Far from urban lights, the night skies of La Palma are ideal for stargazing. The island has a network of astronomical viewpoints where you can look up at the clear night sky. Several companies offer stargazing excursions, though many viewpoints are fitted with information about constellations, planets and the moon.
The Roque de Los Muchachos Observatory, perched almost 2,400m above sea level, is home to one of the broadest collections of telescopes in the world. You can see the giant telescopes in action during guided tours.
Route of the Volcanoes
In the south of the island, you’ll find the Ruta de los Volcanes (Route of the Volcanoes), which passes through Cumbre Vieja National Park. The full trek is 17.5km (nearly 11 miles) and takes you through Canarian pine forests, black lava trails and volcanic landscapes.
Highlights include summiting Volcán Martin and walking above the clouds along the volcano’s ridge trail. From here, on a clear day you can see as far as neighbouring islands Tenerife and La Gomera.
Los Tilos Forest
Los Tilos is a lush laurel forest in the island’s north-east, close to the town of Los Sauces. One of the few remaining laurel forests in the world, it was first declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1983.
You can easily explore the primitive forest’s diverse flora and fauna on foot – there are several self-guided walking trails, including longer routes leading to natural springs. Expect to see giant ferns, unique local birds and numerous native invertebrates.
Los Cancajos beach
Los Cancajos beach is a striking stretch of black sand where bright blue waters meet volcanic shores. Shielded by a volcanic rock breakwater, the tranquil waters and rich marine life make this beach ideal for snorkelling.
There are eight scuba diving sites near the beach, where you can spot fish including barracuda and salema. More experienced divers can discover a submerged plane or squeeze through a labyrinth of lava rocks to see eels, anemones and crustaceans.
If you’re looking for a beach-style holiday, Los Cancajos has a range of hotels and self-catering accommodation options with swimming pools. It’s close to both the airport and island capital, Santa Cruz de la Palma, as well as being a great spot for day trips to the national parks. Checking out an active volcano should appeal to young and old, and there are treks to suit little legs.
Playa Puerto Naos is the biggest beach on the island and another safe option for families. Located on the south-west coastline, it’s a hub with plenty of apartments, shops and restaurants with outdoor terraces.
Accommodation is relatively good value on La Palma and there are plenty of cheap holidays for visitors watching their budget. Across the island, you’ll find colonial-style pensiones (family-run guesthouses) offering a comfortable but no-frills stay that won’t break the bank. Some include private balconies, roof terraces and communal barbecue areas.
Camping is also available in and around the national parks, including Caldera de Taburiente, which has capacity for 100 people. Contact the visitor centre in advance to request permission for a stay in spectacular surrounds under a sky filled with stars.
The heritage town of Los Llanos de Aridane and Santa Cruz de la Palma both have daily markets where you can sample local produce from fresh Atlantic fish to sausages and vegetables. Los Llanos’ market, set inside an old 1950s hall, is lined with stalls hawking the lot, as well as cafés selling baguette-style bocadillo sandwiches filled with ham and cheese.
In Santa Cruz, you’ll find everything from fusion tapas bars to homely restaurants serving local dishes. Expect to see Canarian papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with bright and spicy mojo sauce on many menus. Finish with a traditional Malvasía dessert wine.
You’ll find a good range of bars in Santa Cruz de la Palma but the vibe here is more relaxed than rave. Your best bet is to find a bar where you can watch the sunset with a glass of local wine, or try one of the native rums made from island-grown sugarcane.
Los Llanos de Aridane is home to one of the only discos on the island, offering classic hits as well as contemporary club favourites. Karaoke sessions are held twice a week but don’t show up before midnight if you want an audience.
Cobbled streets and multi-coloured houses with Canarian-pine balconies give Santa Cruz de la Palma its charm. The capital is also home to the Naval Museum, housed inside a reproduction of a 15th-century ship. You can choose from accommodation including upmarket hotels, basic pensiones or self-catering apartments.
On the west coast, Los Llanos de Aridane is the island’s artistic hub with an open-air street gallery and weekly flea market selling antiques and crafts. Here you’ll find a range of boutique hotels with rooftop terraces overlooking mountain ranges and country-style fincas.
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4 hrs 15 mins
(from London)
Euro (€)
Spanish
5 min read
Published 17 December 2021
6 min read
Updated 18 September 2024