How to spend two days in Barcelona

Day one

Morning

Tucked away down a tiny side street, Federal is a boho brunch spot at the heart of the medieval quarter and serves everything you need to set you up for a day’s sightseeing. From here, it’s a short walk to La Rambla, Barcelona’s most famous street – a long, mostly pedestrian boulevard, shaded with trees and split down the middle with a row of flower stalls. Take a detour a little way up to visit the Plaça Reial, an arcaded square with a fountain at its centre.

Back on La Rambla, look out for the Joan Miró pavement mosaic halfway up, plus the world-famous Boqueria Market on the left. Just before Plaça Catalunya at the top, turn right down Carrer de la Canuda, which leads you into a square with a walkway over what was once a Roman necropolis – several well-preserved tombs are on display.

Afternoon

In this same square you’ll find Fauna, a contemporary restaurant offering authentic Mediterranean dishes. Vegetarians might prefer Govinda on the other side of the square. After lunch, it’s a short walk east to the busy pedestrian shopping street of Portal de l’Angel, and from here to the gothic cathedral. Don’t miss the elegant cloister with its resident gaggle of geese.

The atmospheric streets around the back of the cathedral run down to the main Old City square, the Plaça Sant Jaume, where you’ll find the city hall facing the HQ of the Catalan government. From here, Carrer de la Llibreteria runs down to the Via Laietana, which marks the beginning of the pretty El Born neighbourhood.

At its centre is the Passeig del Born, a wide pedestrian street and former jousting ground. Be sure to see the stunning Santa Maria del Mar church, which is located at the end of the Passeig del Born.

Evening

Head up Carrer de Montcada (look out for the Picasso Museum on the right) into the barrio of Sant Pere, which radiates out from the colourful Santa Caterina market, built on the grounds of an old convent (you can see glassed-over remains in one corner).

Beyond this is the extravagantly designed Palau de la Música Catalana, a gem of Modernista architecture and a wonderful place to see a concert, if you can. The best place for a quick pre-concert supper is the nearby El Bitxo, a small bar that turns out creative tapas and dishes to share.

Day two

Morning

Everything is homemade on the brunch menu at Caravelle in the Raval. This area was once considered something of a no-go zone, but in recent years has seen a raft of openings, from top-class restaurants to swish boutiques. Its pride and joy, however, is still the MACBA, the city’s major contemporary art museum. The snowy-white building alone is worth a visit but it’s an easy place to while away a couple of hours.

Leave time, however, to check out the CCCB next door. It’s a former almshouse turned exhibition space and frequently has something interesting on.

Afternoon

The CCCB has a good bar and restaurant, Terracccita, with a creative set menu and outdoor terrace, or you can try your luck at any one of the decently priced restaurants near the entrance to the MACBA. After this, it’s a five-minute walk to the Plaça Catalunya, from where you can wander the Passeig de Gràcia to see some of the more splendid buildings Barcelona has to offer. Even the lamp posts along this street are something to behold.

The real architectural gems are clustered together in the block known as the Manzana de la Discòrdia, where you’ll find Gaudí’s multi-coloured, tiled Casa Batlló, next to similarly striking buildings by Modernista architects Josep Puig I Cadafalch and Lluís Domènech I Montaner (who also designed the Palau de la Música). A couple of blocks further up and on the right is La Pedrera, a Gaudí-designed apartment block turned exhibition space.

Evening

From the Passeig de Gràcia metro station, take the yellow line to Barceloneta (or a ten-minute taxi ride) and emerge at the Palau de Mar. If you take a lift up to the roof you’ll find the B-ONE restaurant, which is a perfect place for a pre-dinner aperitif, with a spectacular view over the yachts of the Port Vell and beyond. Look down and right for the towering pop art Lichtenstein sculpture, Barcelona Head.

For dinner itself, head further into this former fishing neighbourhood to the lively Can Solé. From here, it’s a short walk to the beach, where the bars dotted along the sand stay open late and provide the perfect place to end your two days in Barcelona – preferably with a cocktail under the moonlight.