12 of the best cities in Spain (that aren’t Barcelona)

1. Seville

Seville is one of the best cities in Spain, and possibly the most romantic, too. Maze-like alleyways are lined with elegant yellow and white buildings and it’s not uncommon to see horse-drawn carts trundling through the streets.

Then there’s the flamenco, the sun-drenched, orange tree-filled plazas, and the bullring – it’s the Spain visitors imagine before touching down on its soil.

One of the most recognisable sights is the Plaza de España, an elegant curve of tiled pavilions, fountains and boat-filled canals built for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929.

Its two other standouts are thanks to the Moors: the enchanting Real Alcázar palace, and the graceful cathedral with its Moorish minaret, La Giralda.

Top tip: Summer temperatures in Seville can reach the high 30s, so save your sightseeing for first thing in the mornings if you’re visiting between June to August.

2. Valencia

It may proudly claim the paella but Valencia shouldn’t be pigeonholed as a foodie destination alone; the city has something for everyone, from culture lovers and sun seekers to history buffs.

Get lost in the atmospheric old town of the Barrio del Carmen, with its unique cathedral and impressive central market, then grab a paella by Malvarrosa Beach or tour the futuristic City of Arts and Sciences.

A visit in March will reveal the city at its craziest. The Las Fallas Festival is a three-week affair that sees huge papier-mâché sculptures paraded through the streets, then burnt in a final blaze amid fireworks, firecrackers and bonfire smoke.

Top tip: Valencia’s compact size makes it easy to explore on foot or by bike – look out for the city’s bike rental sharing system, Valenbisi.

3. Granada

Magical Granada seduces visitors with its exotic vibe. Steep cobbled streets are lined with stores selling glittering glass lamps and ornate leather bags, and cosy tea houses serve fragrant brews and spiced tajines.

At the same time, Granada is so typically Spanish with its grand cathedral, vibrant squares, free tapas and live flamenco performances.

Despite its small size, Granada really packs a punch with its attractions. The star of the show is the magnificent Alhambra – the famous complex of palaces, castle-like fortresses and the flower-filled gardens of the Generalife. Expect trickling fountains, elegant courtyards, delicately carved Islamic symbols and opulent throne rooms.

Top tip: Granada is a fantastic jumping off point for the Sierra Nevada National Park. Go for mountain views and incredible hikes.

4. Cordoba

If Moorish Granada grabs your attention, then Cordoba, a place where Spanish and Islamic culture still sit side by side, is sure to as well.

With pride of place in the city centre is La Mezquita, a cathedral and mosque in one. It’s a mesmerizing building, shimmering in gold and covered with huge intricately patterned doorways. Inside, there’s the lavish religious iconography synonymous with cathedrals, juxtaposed against Islamic arches and elaborate carvings.

Another Moorish sight is the gorgeous Alcazar de Reyes Cristianos, an impressive fortress and castle with charming gardens.

The best time to visit Cordoba is May. The city is full of clandestine courtyards filled with fountains and flowers, which for the most part remain closed and hidden away. However, for a few days in May, during the Patios Festival, they all open up for the public to enjoy.

Top tip: Bang in the middle of southern Spain, you can combine Cordoba with an epic road trip of Andalusia and loop around Seville, Malaga and Granada.

5. Bilbao

Bilbao feels a world away from southern Spain, and it has to do with more than just its northern locale. Situated in Basque Country, Bilbao does things its own way, with unique architecture, a distinctive cuisine and even its own language.

Of course, most people are drawn to the city to see Frank Gehry’s celebrated Guggenheim Museum, a huge titanium ship-like structure housing some of the world’s best contemporary art. Since the arrival of the museum, Bilbao has re-invented itself as a hub for art and design, making it one of the best Spanish cities for art lovers.

After you’ve had your fill of the cutting edge, head into the Casco Viejo (old town) to sample some traditional Basque cuisine such as marmitako (fish stew) and bacalao al pil-pil (fried cod).

Top tip: Pair your tapas with txakoli. The sparkling white wine is a staple of the Basque Coast.

6. San Sebastián

A little further along the coast, still deep within Basque Country, is San Sebastián. If you’re a foodie, this is the only Spanish city break you’ll want to know about.

It's up there as one of the top cities for fine dining, with more Michelin-starred restaurants per square kilometre than almost anywhere else in the world.

Part of what makes its cuisine so popular is its pintxos, a local twist on tapas where small pieces of bread are topped with everything from crispy croquettes and sweet peppers to fried lemony squid held together with a cocktail stick.

Its atmospheric old town is a pretty sight too, but San Sebastián’s real drawcard is its picturesque setting along the stunning sweep of La Concha, one of Europe’s best urban beaches.

Top tip: Don’t miss the famous ‘Comb of the Wind’ sculpture by Eduardo Chillida. Find it at the end of Ondarreta beach.

7. Santiago de Compostela

You don’t have to traverse miles of pilgrim paths to visit the Galician city of Santiago de Compostela – it’s just as rewarding if you fly there.

Santiago is, of course, the famous end to the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage routes, a network of roads that wind their way across the top of Spain and up through Portugal.

Whichever way you arrive in Santiago (props to those who walk!), take your time to marvel at the grand cathedral – it’s said to be the burial place of the apostle St James. Then, get acquainted with Galicia’s delicious cuisine, which ranges from the exotic (paprika-spiced octopus) to the classics (empanadas filled with tuna and fried Padrón peppers).

Top tip: For some quiet time between seeing the city’s sights, chill out in leafy Alameda Park and admire the views from its Miradoiro da Catedral viewpoint.

8. Malaga

Many visitors pass through Malaga on their way to the bustling resorts of the Costa del Sol, but those who stop to take in the sights will be pleasantly rewarded with one of the best cities in Spain.

More than just a transport hub, Malaga is a vibrant city with plenty of culture and attractions to keep anyone happy. Its standout sight is the Alcazaba, an ancient Arab citadel that looms over the historic centre and is peppered with gardens, fountains and shrubbery.

Art lovers should visit the house where Picasso was born, as well as Centre Pompidou Malaga, the brightly coloured offshoot of the famous Parisian gallery. Add this to a vivacious old quarter packed with tapas bars and the gorgeous sweep of Malagueta Beach, and you’ve got all the ingredients for a perfect city break.

Top tip: If you’re travelling on a budget, the Picasso Museum is free during the last two hours of each Sunday.

9. Salamanca

When its honeyed grand architecture catches the light, stunning Salamanca bathes in a soft golden glow. No wonder, then, people often refer to Salamanca as one of the most beautiful cities in Spain.

Wherever you walk in Salamanca, you’re sure to fall in love; two of the biggest head-turners are the magnificent Plaza Mayor and the striking university buildings. The former is one of the largest in Spain and the most impressive by far, enclosed by elegant buildings and arched porticos.

The Salamanca University is the oldest in Spain and quite a sight to behold. Its intricately carved facades, doorways and towers hide all sorts of wonders. Legend has it that if you can spot the frog among the detailed carvings, it will bring you good luck.

Top tip: For food on the go, the Salamanca Central Market near Plaza Mayor is a great option for picking up fresh meats, cheese and olives.

10. Palma de Mallorca

It’s surprising how many overlook Majorca’s capital in the rush to get to the island’s beaches. They’re missing out.

You’ll find all city break essentials in Palma de Mallorca: there’s striking architecture, a warren of old town streets, brilliant independent galleries and museums, and more restaurants than you can squeeze into a weekend away. That there’s a beach right on the doorstep is just a bonus.

Start at the cathedral, known locally as La Seu. It’s hard to miss – the waterfront building is a towering gothic structure that overlooks the Bay of Palma as well as the city. The Royal Palace of La Almudaina and Joan Miró’s studios are other highlights of this stunning Spanish city.

Top tip: Visit in late June to see the city transformed under a spectacle of fireworks and bonfires for the San Juan Night of Fire, a celebration of the summer solstice.

11. Zaragoza

Spain’s fifth-largest city doesn’t get much time in the spotlight, but this deeply historic city smack bang in the middle of Bilbao, Barcelona, Valencia and Madrid has a lot to sink your teeth into.

Literally, in some cases. As well as a wealth of well-rated tapas restaurants befitting any Spanish city, Zaragoza has a long history of chocolate making that dates back to the 1500s. In fact, it’s said the Piedra Monastery, around an hour outside of the city, was the first in Europe to produce the stuff this side of the Atlantic.

Plan to spend at least two days ticking off the city’s top sights, which include the ruins of the ancient Roman town of Caesaraugusta and the Nuestra Señora del Pilar cathedral, a baroque icon with frescoes by Zaragoza’s adopted son, Francisco de Goya.

Top tip: Zaragoza’s El Tubo (The Tube) district is the city’s tapas hub, but even more fun is La Magdalena’s Thursday tradition of juepincho, when locals hit the streets for its €2-a-pop tapas nights.

12. Mérida

Mérida is the capital of Extremadura, one of Spain’s least known and least visited regions, though it’s not for a lack of things to do.

Ancient Roman monuments, from aqueducts and the chariot-racing track to the graceful Temple of Diana, are found in abundance here. And with such strong acknowledgement of its Roman roots (there’s the National Museum of Roman Art and a still-used ancient theatre), you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in Italy.

In actual fact, Mérida sits far to the west, closer to Portugal than Madrid and is surrounded by majestic mountains, dense forests and cooling lakes. Despite its beauty and bounty of historical sites, Merida is yet to make it onto travellers’ wish lists. Go now for a cheap city break in Spain.

Top tip: Plan your trip for July or August for a chance to see a classic Greek drama performed at the Roman amphitheatre.