Why the Cíes Islands should be your next Spanish getaway

When you think of Spanish islands, your mind might drift to the sun-drenched beaches of Tenerife or the vibrant nightlife of Ibiza. But off the north-western coast of Spain lies a little-known paradise that rivals Spain’s most popular summer hotspots: the Cíes Islands.

Curious to see if they lived up to their reputation, I set out to discover the allure of the archipelago for myself.

As my boat approached the archipelago, part of the Atlantic Islands of Galicia National Park, Rodas Beach shimmered into view. The island’s main attraction, this curving strip of white sand quite literally glitters. In fact, quartz in the rock gives the entire island chain a unique sparkle.

Stepping onto the pier at Monteagudo, the largest of the Cíes Islands, I followed a well-maintained trail that led up through pine-scented woods, with glimpses of turquoise waters below. The path then followed the ridgeline along 150m-high (492ft) cliffs, peppered with wildflowers and ‘sea-watch’ celery holding out against the ocean breeze.

At the island's highest point, I was rewarded with a panorama – the Atlantic Ocean on one side, the rugged Galician coast on the other and below, Rodas Beach connecting two of the islands like a natural bridge.

Windswept by the Atlantic, the archipelago has more in common with island chains on the wild west coast of Ireland than those of the Canaries or Balearics. In fact, Galicia – the region to which the islands belong – proudly boasts a Celtic heritage that’s unique in Spain, evident in everything from its traditional bagpipes to its cider-making tradition.

After working up an appetite, I made my way to one of the island's three small restaurants, Serafín Islas Cies. Here, I tucked into grilled dorada, likely swimming in the surrounding waters just hours before. With a full stomach and tired legs, there was only one thing left to do: cool off in the crystal-clear waters of Rodas Beach.

Tempted to visit? Here's a quick guide to making the most of your Cíes Islands adventure.

What activities are available on the Cíes Islands?

Hiking

Hiking is a major draw on the archipelago, with four well-maintained trails crisscrossing the islands and plenty of wildlife-spotting opportunities. The most popular route is the 3km (2 mile) hike to the Faro de Cíes lighthouse on Faro, where you’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of the archipelago and the rugged Galician coast on the mainland.

If you’re seeking a less crowded experience, the shorter trail to Faro do Peito, on the northern shore of Monteagudo, offers a more secluded adventure.

Swimming

Swimming and snorkelling are popular thanks to the islands' crystal-clear waters, though be prepared for bracing temperatures! The Atlantic waters here are refreshingly cool, even in summer.

Snorkelling allows you to spot a variety of marine life, including octopus, mussels, crabs and fish species like sole and mackerel. Diving is also possible if you’re an underwater enthusiast, but you'll need a permit.

Beaches

The islands’ crown jewel is Rodas Beach, a stunning 1.2km (0.75 miles) stretch of white sand connecting Monteagudo and Faro. Faro also has picturesque Praia de Nosa Señora, a secluded, rocky cove overlooked by a church.

Prefer to sunbathe au naturel? Monteagudo’s Playa de Figueiras is widely considered one of the best nudist beaches in Spain. This beautiful, 350m-long beach features white sand and turquoise waters and attracts a diverse crowd. If it’s not for you, there plenty of other beaches on the islands where you can keep your cozzie on.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

Birdwatching

The islands are home to one of the world's largest seagull colonies so twitchers will be in their element. The islands are part of an important bird area and offer the chance to spot various species in their natural habitat.

Boat trips

Boat trips reveal a different perspective on the Cíes Islands and they’re the only way to visit the third island, San Martiño, which is otherwise inaccessible to day visitors.

Can I stay on the islands?

You can camp overnight on the Cíes Islands, but only during Semana Santa (the week before Easter) and the summer season (May 15 to September 15).

You'll need to obtain a camping permit in advance as there's limited space at the campsite, which is near Rodas Beach. The site is well-equipped with tents for hire, an on-site restaurant and paid activities including kayaking and stargazing.

It's a fantastic way to experience the islands' tranquillity after the day-trippers have left.

Where can I stay on the mainland?

There are plenty of options if you’d prefer to stay on the mainland. Pazo da Touza in Nigrán is perfect for a romantic getaway. This boutique hotel is set in a 16th-century manor surrounded by beautiful gardens and countryside. It’s all about elegance here, with eclectic décor and serene vibes.

For a more modern luxury experience, check out Gran Hotel Nagari Boutique & Spa in Vigo. This hotel is all about pampering – think hydromassage bathtubs, a chic spa with sea views and a terrace bar perfect for cocktails at sunset.

If you fancy a blend of history and luxury, stay at the Parador de Baiona, a castle-turned-hotel overlooking the Atlantic. With its medieval walls, gorgeous gardens and top-notch dining, it’s a unique spot to unwind and soak in the stunning views.

How do I get to the Cíes Islands?

The nearest airport is Vigo Airport (VGO), about 13km (8 miles) from Vigo city. Ryanair flies direct from the UK from just £14.99.

From Vigo, you can catch a ferry to the islands. Regular ferry services run from the ports of Vigo, Baiona and Cangas during the summer months (June to September). In the off-season, services are less frequent but still available, especially around Easter.

To visit, you need to obtain permission from the Xunta de Galicia website (up to 90 days in advance), then use the provided code to purchase your ferry tickets from one of several companies.

It's a good idea to book your ferry tickets in advance, especially during peak season, as there's a daily limit of 2,200 visitors to preserve the islands' ecosystem. The boat journey takes about 45 minutes.

What should I bring for a day trip?

Pack essentials like suncream, water, snacks and a hat. There are limited facilities on the islands, so it's best to come prepared. Importantly, bring a bag for your rubbish – visitors are required to take all their waste back to the mainland to help preserve the islands' pristine environment. You might also want to bring comfy walking shoes for hiking, swimwear and towel, a jacket or windbreaker (weather can change quickly) and cash for restaurants.

Where can I eat on the Cíes Islands?

While the islands aren’t really known for their foodie scene, there are a few options to keep you fuelled during your visit. Near the ferry pier, you'll find Restaurante Playa de Rodas, which offers a variety of dishes and local wines with a view of the turquoise waters. It can get busy, especially around lunchtime, so be prepared for a bit of a wait. If you're camping, there's a small supermarket at the campsite as well as a café serving meals and snacks.

Are there any special rules I should be aware of?

The Cíes Islands are part of a national park, so there are some important rules to follow. Fishing is a no-go and you'll have to leave your pets at home. If you smoke, stick to the designated areas. When hiking, stay on the marked trails to protect the local plants and animals. The islands don't have bins, so you'll need to take your rubbish with you when you leave.

One rule to remember: don't pee in the sea or on the beach. In 2022, the local Vigo municipality, which the islands are part of, decided to crack down on the practice. They're serious about keeping the waters clean and will slap you with a fine of up to £634 (€750) if you're caught.

Basically, the main rule is to respect the islands' natural beauty.

I've heard there are a lot of seagulls on the islands. Are they really that bad?

The Cíes Islands are home to one of the world's largest seagull colonies and they can be quite daring. Visitors often report seagulls swooping down to steal food, particularly around the restaurants. In one incident, a seagull even made off with a tourist's GoPro camera and filmed a real ‘bird's-eye view’ of the islands. While entertaining, it's best to keep a close eye on your belongings and food when the gulls are around.