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With sun-drenched beaches, swaying palm trees and an ambiance that is as mellow as they come, Antigua and Barbuda are everything you’ve dreamed of in a Caribbean holiday. If it’s relaxation you’re after – fuelled by fresh seafood and the world’s best rum – these dazzling islands are the perfect setting for an all-inclusive getaway.
At 14 miles long and 11 miles wide – with just a 45-minute drive separating the east coast from the west – Antigua sounds small enough to explore in its entirety. But size can be deceiving, as its perimeter packs in around 365 picture-perfect beaches and sandy coves. It could take a year to see them all, so start with some of the finest, such as Half Moon Bay, Princess Diana Beach and Rendezvous Bay.
Barbuda is even smaller and its beaches arguably even more idyllic. And since the devastation of Hurricane Irma in 2017, Antigua’s little sister is rebuilding its infrastructure and starting to thrive again – a few hotels are open and visitors are returning.
Offshore, snorkelling and diving around Antigua and Barbuda is a must: pristine reefs and colourful marine life surround the paradise islands. Take a boat trip to see the coral at Cades Reef, visit the 100-year-old wreck at Deep Bay and explore the tiny offshore islets. For a higher-paced watersport, try kite-surfing off Jabberwock Beach.
Back on land, Nelson’s Dockyard is an essential stop on an island tour, offering a glimpse into 18th-century life. Elsewhere, Betty’s Hope – a restored plantation and windmill – provides an insight into the daily hardship experienced by slaves at the time, as do the stories surrounding the crashing waves at Devil’s Bridge and of those that escaped to Boggy Peak.
December to April is the most popular time for an Antigua and Barbuda holiday, and the islands are the perfect place to escape the UK’s winter weather. Temperatures here average around 26C, rainfall is low, and you’re looking at a blissful 9 or 10 hours of sunshine a day.
But being an idyllic winter sun destination means that hotels and flights don’t always come cheap. That said, prices reduce by up to a third if you travel outside of peak season (May to November) and are fine with the increased chance of rain.
July and August are the hottest months and, with highs of around 30C, it can get humid. Still, there’s often a Caribbean breeze to cool things down a bit. The rain isn’t usually enough to ruin a holiday here, but it’s worth bearing in mind that September has the highest risk of hurricanes.
Stress-free lounging, swimming and eating are top of the list for any holiday to Antigua or Barbuda – nothing needs to happen quickly here. But if you’re keen to get active, there’s lots to do, including snorkelling, sailing and discovering more about the island’s colonial past.
Nelson’s Dockyard
Built by slaves in the 18th century, this historic dockyard is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Visit the Dockyard Museum to see the Naval Officer’s former quarters, hike up to Shirley Heights Lookout, then enjoy dinner in one of the many restored buildings.
Admiral Lord Nelson is said to have disliked it here during his stay from 1784 to 1787. Nowadays, as you wander along the sparkling seafront under a clear blue sky, it’s hard to see why.
Rendezvous Bay
Arguably one of Antigua’s nicest beaches, Rendezvous Bay is a remote stretch of golden sand that’s relatively untouched by the island’s mainstream tourism.
It’s slightly tricky to get to – you’ll need to walk for approximately 90-minutes through a rainforest –but your efforts are suitably rewarded: you'll get to enjoy this sliver of paradise with few others.
Don’t forget to take water, a picnic and a snorkel as there aren’t any facilities on the beach.
Boggy Peak/Mount Obama
Rising up behind Jolly Harbour, Boggy Peak – previously named Mount Obama to honour the former US President – is Antigua’s highest point at 402m (1,319ft).
In the 17th century, slaves who had escaped would gather here to hide. Now, it’s a national park with several trails starting a Cades Bay. On cooler, cloudy days, a hike through the thick forests is a great alternative to the beach.
Frigate Bird Sanctuary
For birdwatchers and wildlife enthusiasts alike, Codrington Lagoon National Park in Barbuda is a must-see. It’s home to one of the world's largest colonies of frigate birds, and the protected lagoon can be accessed via a guided water taxi.
The large black birds soar in the sky with their enormous wingspan and during the mating season (September to April), the males roosting among the mangroves display their red chests at full puff – their bulbous scarlet pouches reaching the size of footballs to impress the females.
Day sails
Boat trips are the quintessential experience in Antigua and Barbuda – think private cruises from Falmouth Harbour and day trips to Cades Reef.
If you’re not lucky enough to be taking your own private yacht, the islands’ organised day sails have you covered. Visit hidden islets for snorkelling, see the craggy coves along the east coast and dive among a pristine coral reef.
There are plenty of resorts in Antigua that cater to families, but the west coast beaches tend to have calmer seas, so anywhere around Jolly Harbour or Five Islands village is a good choice.
If you have active teens, Dickenson Bay is good for watersports including jet skiing and parasailing. Mamora Bay also has great opportunities for sailing and paddle boarding, and is a short drive from Antigua’s canopy tour, where you can zip-line through the rainforest.
Let’s face it, the Caribbean doesn’t come cheap – and hotel prices in Antigua and Barbuda reflect that. If you’re on a budget, your best bet is to look for basic hotels, self-catering studios and apartments. St John’s has a few good options.
Meanwhile, travelling outside of peak season increases your chances of getting a cheap holiday to Antigua; look for a hotel in Dickenson Bay or Jolly Harbour. You can also save money while you’re there by eating freshly fried fish at street shacks, taking the local bus and drinking the island’s tastiest rum in smaller local bars.
Even fancy restaurants have an air of informality in Antigua, and beachfront meals come with stunning sea views. English Harbour has gourmet restaurants to try, as does the northern coast by Jabberwock Beach.
Luxury resorts along Antigua’s coastline often have a range of international restaurants, but the highlight is their local menus. Be sure to try a breakfast of salt fish ‘chop up’ during your stay, as well as other favourites like goat curry, lobster and Antigua’s sweet black pineapple.
Barbuda also is a great place to try freshly fried fish made in small local restaurants or from street-side stalls in Codrington.
Much of Antigua’s nightlife is found on the west coast, with small, lively hubs in Dickenson Bay and Jolly Harbour. The focus is open-air beach bars and laid-back restaurants serving drinks into the wee-hours. For dancing, late-night clubs and bars are usually open from Thursday to Sunday, often with live bands playing reggae and jazz.
English Harbour also has some excellent seafront bars where you’ll find steel bands and live music on the weekend. The numerous restaurants around Nelson’s Dockyard are set in restored colonial buildings and serve fresh seafood, or you can dine on a romantic sunset cruise along the coast.
St John’s, the island’s capital, is home to the Antigua and Barbuda Museum, a cathedral and a lively public marketplace. It’s a good choice to see local life, and you’ll find several affordable hotels here too. Alternatively, staying in the south puts you close to Nelson’s Dockyard, the Dockyard Museum and the historic seafront.
A stay among Barbuda’s small, friendly community can give you a unique insight into island life. In Codrington, there are regular village gatherings and several places to meet, eat and drink with the locals. Historical sights here include the Martello Tower and the ruins of a small well that marks the spot where Barbuda’s castle once stood.
8 hrs 35 mins
(from London)
Eastern Caribbean dollar (XCD)
English
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