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Running the length of Nice’s crescent Bay of Angels, the palm-fringed Promenade des Anglais remembers times gone by, of Queen Victoria wintering here in the 1900s, and of the English aristocracy strolling under parasols in this timeless French Riviera town. Today, Nice fuses art museums, refined culture and stylish shopping.
From grand belle-époque buildings to modern boutiques, Nice is packed with hotels for a classic holiday in the Cote d’Azur. Backed by year-round blue skies, they’re perfect for romantic weekends and beach breaks with the family. Walk hand in hand along the Promenade des Anglais, swim in the Mediterranean Sea and sip French wine in an artisan bar.
History and art are all around in Nice, from the beau-monde villas to the Roman ruins in exclusive Cimiez. Matisse and Chagall fell for Nice’s Mediterranean light and scenery after World War II and took inspiration for their art from the city. The two masters are now celebrated in museums, also in hilltop Cimiez, near the Monastère de Cimiez.
After visiting the museums, galleries and Matisse’s grave, wander through the winding streets of Vieux Nice, the old town, for an engrossing slice of Niçoise life. The focal point is the well-known flower and food market in Cours Saleya. This is the place to get macarons, clothing and, of course, flowers galore. After dark, the area is also home to the town’s liveliest nightlife.
Some of the finest art in Nice is its cuisine. Influenced by both French and Italian kitchens, chefs serve up exciting dishes in award-winning and Michelin-starred restaurants, and local bistros and street vendors deliver authentic favourites - try socca (savoury oven-baked chickpea crepes) and pan bagnat (salad Niçoise in a bun).
Nice is a fantastic destination for a weekend break at any time of year – there’s always something to do. If sunbathing is top of your list, go for the heat of the summer in July and August, when the mercury regularly reaches 27C and the sunbeds are out.
The shoulder seasons (March and April, September and October) are still pleasantly warm and have fewer crowds. Spring, in particular, is a good time to visit for the flower market’s colourful blooms. Late February fills up for the carnival, as does December when the Christmas village lights up the park, with ice-skating, festive food stalls and a giant Ferris wheel.
Winters are chilly, with temperatures falling to 9C. But the skies often stay clear and – apart from at Christmas and New Year – there are lower room rates and plenty of cheap city breaks in Nice.
It's tempting to spend all of your time in Nice strolling along the Promenade des Anglais, people watching in the old town, and stopping by bistros for traditional dishes or a refreshing carafe of local rosé wine. There's much more to see, though: museums, viewpoints and stand-out markets are just some of the essential stops.
Beaches
Along the promenade are free public beaches and paid-for private sections, with comfortable daybeds, waiter service, and a glamorous feel. Fanciest of all is Castel Plage, a sheltered beach close to the old town with a fancy Art Nouveau restaurant.
Next to it, Plage Publique des Ponchettes is a popular free-to-enter stretch, with plenty of space for sunbathing and swimming.
Colline du Château
Rising above the city, grassy Castle Hill has picturesque views across the bay. The medieval fort is long gone, obliterated by Louis XIV's troops in 1706, with only the Bellanda Tower remaining. But its splendid vantage point remains a Nice classic, and the park has welcome shady spots in summer.
To reach the top, climb the stairs at the east end of the Promenade des Anglais or take the free lift (look for signs reading Ascenseur du Chateau).
Matisse Museum
By an olive grove in the upmarket Cimiez district, this Genoese mansion is devoted to a modernist great. Henri Matisse based himself in Nice from 1917 onwards, relishing working with the colour and light of his Mediterranean surroundings.
The Matisse Museum permanently shows some 60 of his works – oil paintings, drawings, sculptures, and more – as well as temporary exhibitions, which explore the artist and his work in more depth. The museum is closed on Tuesdays.
Marc Chagall National Museum
Walking downhill along the Boulevard de Cimiez, you’ll find another single-artist shrine, this time focused on a Belarusian early modernist. The Marc Chagall National Museum has the largest collection of his works, with the star attraction, the Biblical Message paintings, themed around the Old Testament.
Entry is free on the first Sunday of the month and for those under 26, and the museum is closed on Tuesdays.
Cours Saleya market
In the heart of the old town, the Cours Saleya is one of France's great markets. Under attractive striped awnings, there’s a kaleidoscope of geraniums, dahlias and roses. Stroll eastwards for the food market to pick up fresh olives, bread and cheese for a picnic.
The market runs daily from 6am to 5.30pm. On Mondays, the flowers and food make way for a sprawling flea market, where you can buy antiques, vintage clothing and jewellery.
For families
If you’re travelling to Nice with kids, staying by the beachfront is a good idea. There’s plenty of accommodation along the Promenade des Anglais, and many of the larger hotels have family-size rooms.
For convenience, stay near the old town and the Jardin Albert 1er, especially at Christmas, when there will be lots to keep little ones entertained. Here, you’ll be near the coast as well as being a short walk from many restaurants and shops and the Petit Train tour, which is a fun way to get around the city’s landmarks.
For travellers on a budget
For a cheap city break to Nice, Vernier and Thiers, the areas around Gare de Nice-Ville railway station, are great places to look. You’ll find plenty of affordable hotels here, and will be within walking distance of the beach.
A little further out, Libération is a trendy district connected to the old town by a regular tram. Both Vernier and Libération are less touristy, so you’ll enjoy a more authentic Niçoise experience in the local eateries. Libération also has a lively food market, which is open every day except Monday, and often isn’t as crowded as the Cours Saleya.
For food and drink
Good food and drink are the standard in Nice. Staying in the old town puts you right in the heart of the city and close to the exciting bistros, bakeries, and street-food stands at the Cours Saleya, day and night.
Nice also has several Michelin-star and award-winning restaurants in the old town and towards Thiers. For a meal with a view and a couple of stars, get a table at Le Chantecler on the promenade or try the creative dishes and excellent wines at Flaveur.
For nightlife
Vieux Nice – the old town – is the hub of Nice’s party scene. Stay here to be within stumbling distance of English-style pubs, jazz bars and live-music venues, all of which come alive after dark with a clientele that’s dressed to impress. Just nearby, the Promenade des Anglais is where you’ll find the city’s casinos.
The area around the port is another excellent spot for nightlife, which increasingly attracts the younger locals. It has a relaxed vibe – think artisan wine bars and laid-back bistros serving classic French cuisine.
For culture
Many of Nice’s top cultural attractions are in Cimiez, an exclusive residential neighbourhood that caught the eye of artist Henri Matisse, who both lived and died here.
The Matisse Museum, Monastère de Cimiez, and the remains of the Roman baths – the site of both the ruins and the Archaeological Museum – are all here. It’s also home to the Chagall Museum and Nice’s Conservatory of Music, which has a regular programme of classical music.
Alternatively, staying in the old town puts you close to the Opera House, National Theatre and the Nice Jazz Festival in July.
2 hrs
(from London)
Euro (€)
French
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5 min read
Updated 19 October 2023