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What to do in Corsica

From mighty mountains and hilltop towns to white-sand beaches and world-class scuba diving, Corsica is an island of brilliant extremes. Spend your days trekking through craggy valleys, splashing around in quiet coves, and exploring atmospheric old towns on a holiday in Corsica.

Beaches

Corsica’s beaches are spectacular. In the south, there’s Plage de Roccapina, a cove of blinding white sand overlooked by a giant lion-shaped rock. Along the eastern coast, you’ll find the soft sands and umbrella pines of Plage de Palombaggia and the broad expanse of Plage du Pinarello, while in the north, near St Florent, you can take a shuttle boat to the white sands of Plage de Loto. Calvi’s city beach, meanwhile, is superb and offers views of its massive citadel.

Bonafacio boat trips

Hugging the southern end of the island, the white-striped limestone cliffs of Bonafacio are often the first image that comes to mind when you think of Corsica. Although it’s the most touristy thing to do in Bonafacio, the best way to see the cliffs is from one of the many boat trips that leave the harbour – and the cliffs really are extraordinary. Some excursions include a visit to the rocky Lavezzi islands, where there’s fantastic snorkelling. To go further afield, take the ferry to the Italian island of Sardinia.

Bastia Vieux Port

Bastia’s Vieux Port has held on to its Italian character – a legacy of Corsica’s past as part of the Genoese empire. Tall townhouses with distinctive green shutters tower above the harbour, sheltering one café terrace after another. It’s a lively scene, especially from early evening onwards. Hovering over the port is Terranova, Bastia’s citadel, which you can reach by taking the steps over the lush greenery of Jardin Romieu and enjoying some splendid views from the top of the rocky promontory.

Scandola Nature Reserve

Take a boat trip from Calvi and prepare to be knocked sideways by the magnificent red rock formations that make up the Scandola Nature Reserve. It’s the only way you’re allowed to visit this immense UNESCO-listed headland that sprawls across 700sq km (430sq m), where you’ll also spot dolphins, seals and rare birds. The whole area is part of a volcanic formation that dates back about 250 million years.

Spelunca Gorge

Corsica’s interior easily competes with its rocky coastline for pure drama. From Porto on the western coast, take the hairpin mountain road inland to the Spelunca Gorge, one of Europe’s most breathtaking drives. Imposing granite walls rise from the confluence of the Onca, Porto, Campi and Tavulella rivers, creating a jaw-dropping sight. If you want to get closer, you can hike through the gorge from Evisa to Ota.

Where to stay in Corsica

For families

The Balagne region hugs the north-western coast, where you’ll find one beautiful beach after another between Calvi and L’Ile Rousse. Calvi’s wide beach makes it a favourite, as do the three sandy beaches that surround L’Ile Rousse.

In between is the laidback resort of Algajola, whose wide gravelly beach goes on for a kilometre. You can even hop on a rickety little train that trundles along the coast between the main towns.

The beaches further east around St Florent and Bastia are also popular with families, especially if you’re into watersports.

For travellers on a budget

While Corsica can be more expensive than mainland France, there are still ways to keep costs down. Campsites are easy to find, although large deluxe complexes beside a beach can cost as much as a hotel.

The larger towns of Porto Vecchio, Calvi, Bastia and Ajaccio offer a wide choice, and you can find deals if you’re willing to stay on the outskirts of town. Self-catering is another good option, with a range of apartments and cottages around the major towns.

For food and drink

Seafood lovers have an enormous choice from Corsica’s coastal towns and villages, where waterside restaurants line colourful harbours. But although Corsica is an island, much of the cuisine looks inward – away from the sea. Its charcuterie and cheeses (usually from sheep and goats) are flavoured with the heady herbs of the maquis, the scrubland that covers much of the island.

If you’re in Ajaccio, don’t miss its vast food market, the island’s largest, which runs every day except Monday. L’Ile Rousse’s covered food market is one of the prettiest.

For nightlife

If you want a lively nightlife that goes beyond what’s offered by restaurants and bars, you’re better off sticking to the large towns. Bastia’s student population brings a buzz to the town, and ensures its nightlife isn’t just confined to the summer season. Calvi’s marina draws a sophisticated and sometimes starry crowd to its clubs and jazz bars, and younger partygoers flock to the open-air clubs on the outskirts of town. In the south, you’ll find nightclubs in Porte-Vecchio that stay open till late.

For culture

History buffs head to Ajaccio and make a beeline for Maison Bonaparte. Napoleon was born in this massive townhouse in 1769, and you can discover his life and legacy within its ornate interiors. From here it’s a short stroll to Ajaccio’s finest art gallery, Musée Fesch, housed in an imposing 19th-century palace established by Napoleon’s uncle. Over four levels, there is an impressive collection of Renaissance art, including works by Botticelli and Titian. Ajaccio’s old town is a delight, with pedestrianised streets full of cafés and smart shops.