France’s best cities: 10 French city breaks that aren’t Paris

1. Nice

Mixing Riviera glamour with the more down-to-earth atmosphere found in a major city, Nice is one of the highlights of France’s Mediterranean coast.

Join the chilled-out crowd strolling along the Promenade des Anglais that hugs Nice’s beachfront, which is studded with beach clubs and some very grand hotels. Then dive into the maze of streets that make up the old town, Vieux Nice, full of ochre Italian-style townhouses and narrow alleyways that lead to the colourful food market in Cours Saleya.

For fabulous views of the city’s terracotta rooftops, walk (or take the lift) up to the park at Colline du Chateau.

Where to stay in Nice

You’re in a prime spot at the four-star Palais Saleya Boutique Hotel just inside Vieux Nice and seconds away from the lusciously green Promenade du Paillon, where you have the choice of modern rooms or apartments in this handsome 18th-century townhouse. Deep in Vieux Nice is Hotel Rossetti, which has contemporary rooms in a 17th-century townhouse and an adorable courtyard garden.

2. Marseille

France’s cosmopolitan second city still keeps its scruffy charm despite being cleaned up for its stint as the European Capital of Culture in 2013. With a spruced-up Vieux Port and new museums brightening up the old docks area, this city in the South of France is more vibrant than ever.

Check out the trendy bars and cafés in the Saint-Victor quarter, along with the cool Cours Julien district and the atmospheric narrow lanes of Marseille’s oldest area, Le Panier. 

Take the bus out to one of the many city beaches to take advantage of its seaside location, or go swimming or boating in one of the many pretty coves within the Calanques National Park.

Where to stay in Marseille

Handy for the railway station and only 1.6km (1 mile) from the Vieux Port, three-star Alex Hotel has smart rooms and a spa for very decent prices. Bask in sea views at nhow Marseille, a gleaming white hotel with an outdoor pool on Palm Beach a short bus ride from the centre. At Maison Montgrand, just five minutes’ walk from the Vieux Port, you’ll find apartments and rooms as well as a huge internal garden, trendy restaurant, bar and tea room.

3. Toulouse

There’s a richness in Toulouse that you find everywhere in the city – from its signature cassoulet dish of duck and haricot beans to its rose-coloured architecture. Its warmth and laidback atmosphere make it one of the best cities to visit in France, especially when you add superior museums including the Fondation Bemberg and Les Abattoirs.

Influence from its Spanish neighbours mean lively tapas bars dot the city, especially in the Quartier des Carmes. Don’t miss the chance to taste the fantastic food displayed temptingly in the Victor Hugo market.

Where to stay in Toulouse

Four-star Hotel Les Capitouls pays homage to the Manchester music scene in its stylish and funky rooms. Book one of the apartments in Privilège Appart-Hotel Saint-Exupéry and you’ll have a swimming pool to plunge into from May to October. Or, soak up the artistic ambience in the opulently decorated Grand Hotel de l’Opéra – it’s set in a 17th-century former monastery in an enviable position overlooking the magnificent Place du Capitole.

4. Lyon

Even Paris acknowledges that Lyon really is the gastronomic capital of France. This elegant city in the Rhône Valley, where both the rivers Rhône and Saône flow through, has a rich culinary tradition that takes in everything from Michelin-starred restaurants to family-run places known as bouchons.

Lose yourself in the UNESCO-listed medieval lanes of the old town before taking the funicular to Fourvière Hill to see the impressive Notre-Dame de Fourvière along with an ancient Roman theatre – the oldest in France.

Where to stay in Lyon

Seriously hip Mob Hotel, in the revamped Confluence district, has a bold, quirky design, as well as rooftop parties, organic restaurant and library. In a convenient spot in the heart of Presqu'île between the rivers Rhône and Saône, Hotel Silky plays on Lyon’s history as a great silk-making power with stylish rooms. Also in Presqu'île is the quietly sumptuous Hotel de l’Abbaye, a three-star boutique hotel set in the former presbytery of the Basilica of St-Martin d’Ainay opposite.

5. Lille

The capital of French Flanders – and northern France’s largest city – is very easy to reach from the UK, which might be why it’s often overlooked.

To go with its upbeat university town vibe, Lille has elegant Flemish architecture and an attractive old town of cobbled lanes filled with excellent restaurants and shops. Come in winter for the glittering Christmas market, or watch the summertime tango sessions held in the beautiful 17th-century former stock exchange in Grand Place.

And don’t miss visiting the suburb of Roubaix, home to La Piscine, an enchanting museum set in an old art deco swimming pool.

Where to stay in Lille

Right on the edge of Vieux Lille is the four-star L’Arbre Voyageur, whose ultramodern façade hides smart contemporary rooms and two excellent restaurants. The only hotel directly on the Grand Place is the elegant Grand Hotel Bellevue and its fabulous roof terrace. If you’re coming to Lille Europe station by Eurostar, a handy spot is the fantastically wacky Mama Shelter and its fun restaurant.

6. Bordeaux

France’s wine capital has a winning combination of a buzzing UNESCO-listed city centre, the River Garonne with a quayside life of its own, and plenty of places to try some of the finest wines in the country.

See for yourself in Bordeaux’s bars and restaurants squeezed into the triangle formed by Place du Parlement, Place Camille Jullien and Place St-Pierre.

To learn more about the city’s famed export, take the tram to the shiny Cité du Vin museum – this audacious creation shaped like a giant flowing wine goblet is a captivating celebration of wine from all over the world.

Where to stay in Bordeaux

Swap the city centre for the aptly named Bordeaux Cosy B&B about a 20-minute walk away and you get a lovely garden with a pool. If you want to splurge a bit and stay in the centre, Hotel de Sèze is a refined choice that comes with a spa and a private golf course. Foodies will want to stay at Maison Fredon, which is surrounded by some of Bordeaux’s most-loved restaurants.

7. Montpellier

Montpellier manages to keep its mellow Mediterranean feel despite being one of the most dynamic cities in France. Maybe it’s all that sunshine that France’s southern Occitanie region gets.

Home to one of France’s oldest universities, Montpellier combines a beautifully preserved medieval centre with some eye-catching new architecture, a constantly evolving restaurant scene and huge green spaces.

Combine the beach with the city by taking the tram or bus to one of the sandy beaches that are 30 minutes away by public transport. For a longer day out, hire a car to visit Espiguette, one of the best beaches in France that's less than an hour’s drive away.

Where to stay in Montpellier

Stay at Hotel d’Aragon and you’ll be a minute away from Montpellier’s most famous square, Place de la Comédie. Some of its traditionally styled rooms come with whirlpool baths. On the Place de la Comédie itself, beside the opera house, is the elegant Grand Hotel du Midi, which has stylish rooms mixing contemporary décor with a hint of early 20th century design.

8. Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s prettiness is practically off the scale. Its old town, Petite France, is crammed full of beautiful half-timbered houses smothered in bright flowers – usually with a river or canal flowing past to add to the beauty of the place.

As the city has been passed from France to Germany several times during its history, there’s a delicious blending of the two cuisines along with its uniquely Alsatian take on the hearty food of eastern France.

Make time to visit the cathedral, which features an astronomical clock and a rooftop viewing platform with views as far as the Black Forest.

Where to stay in Strasbourg

You’re in half-timbered heaven at the 16th-century Hotel Cour du Corbeau, a collection of ten buildings charmingly cobbled together south of the River Ill. It’s bigger than a boutique hotel but it exudes the same cosseted feeling. Four-star Léonor Hotel comes with refined modern rooms and an intimate courtyard perfect for drinks or coffee.

9. Nantes

It’s no longer part of Brittany, but there’s still a strong Breton streak to Nantes, which you’ll notice in its crêperies and seafood restaurants.

This city on the Loire and Erdre rivers has a habit of reinventing and reinvigorating itself, its latest incarnation being an arty place full of fun quirks as befits the birthplace of Jules Verne. Head down to the transformed waterfront to see Les Machines de l'île, a fantastic collection of giant steampunk-style mechanical animals, the star of which is a huge elephant you can ride.

You can also discover the city’s long history at the 15th-century Castle of the Dukes of Brittany before taking a lazy boat cruise on the Loire.

Where to stay in Nantes

Set in a 19th-century former chapel, Sōzō Hotel is right beside the Jardin des Plantes and features modern rooms under graceful vaulted ceilings. A few steps away from Théâtre Graslin is Oceania Hotel de France, with creatively designed rooms and an impressively opulent lounge in an 18th-century mansion. Splash out on the suite and you get a private rooftop terrace.

10. Nîmes

Sunny, easy-going Nîmes is the place for a short French city break where you can soak up superb culture and history tinged with a sultry Spanish flavour.

Its Roman amphitheatre and temple are some of the best preserved in France, and there’s more if you take the bus out to the towering Roman-built Pont du Gard. Come in the summer and you can have a refreshing swim in the Gard River.

Back in the city centre, wander through its pedestrianised city centre, which throngs with tapas bars, restaurants and excellent shops and delis.

Where to stay in Nîmes

A central location near the ancient Roman Maison Carrée combined with a buzzing tapas restaurant, La Bodeguita, and a handsome 19th-century building make the reasonably priced Royal Hotel an appealing choice. At the other end of the scale is super-luxurious Jardins Secrets set in an 18th-century former coach house. Although pricey, it’s a five-star, exquisite oasis in the city, with beautifully designed themed rooms clustering around a gorgeous garden and swimming pool.