What to do in Northern Cyprus
Holidays in Cyprus’ north offer a fascinating blend of ancient historical ruins, blissfully underdeveloped beaches and sleepy traditional villages. From hatchling sea turtles to Roman city ruins, there’s plenty to keep you busy on this half of the island.
Bellapais village
Since the writer Lawrence Durrell immortalised Bellapais in his 1957 memoir Bitter Lemons, literary pilgrims have sought out this tiny mountain village in search of the “real” Cyprus. What they find rarely disappoints. A jumble of quiet, old streets centred around a huge, ruined abbey complex, Bellapais makes for a pleasant day trip away from the beach.
Nowadays, the church ruins are used for exhibitions and live music. The village has spectacular views down over Kyrenia town and out to sea.
Alagadi Beach
The quiet beaches of Cyprus’ north are ideal breeding grounds for loggerhead and green turtles. Alagadi Beach, a 40-minute drive east from Kyrenia, is one of the best spots on the island to see both species.
Between March and June, female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs by night; at the Alagadi Sea Turtle Conservation and Research Centre, you can arrange a viewing. Tourists can also help researchers release hatchling turtles under controlled conditions between July and August.
The ancient city of Salamis
A vast network of ruins and relics, Salamis is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. Founded by the ancient Greeks and used by Romans, Salamis’ collection of columns, statues, baths, basilicas, and cisterns stand as an open-air museum to the island’s long, complex history.
The large gymnasium and theatre are among Salamis’ most impressive sights. A handful of trails run around the site, which overlooks the dazzling blue hues of the Levantine Sea.
The Karpaz Peninsula
Step even further from the beaten track with a trip to the Karpaz Peninsula, Northern Cyprus’ distinctive outstretched finger. A place where mile after mile of deserted beaches beckon, each one is quieter and more remote than the last.
Golden Beach lies almost at the tip of the peninsula, deserted and backed by gentle dunes. Here, at the end of the world, you’ll find the Mediterranean as it once was. The nearby Monastery of Apostolos Andreas, a pilgrimage site for Greek Orthodox, is also well worth the trek. A rental car is essential.
Nicosia, the “world’s last divided capital”
A tremendous barricade cleaves Nicosia in two, affording it the unusual accolade “the world’s last divided city”. The “Green Line”, as the border is known, stops streets dead, gun positions still fixed in frozen menace.
Today, it is possible to pass between both sides with ease, making the city well worth a few days of exploration. On the Turkish-occupied side, North Nicosia (Lefkosa), don’t miss Buyuk Han, an old Ottoman traders house, and Selimiye Camii, an old Gothic cathedral turned mosque.