Northern Cyprus holidays

Over on the east coast sits Famagusta (or Gazimagusa), a handsome walled city of beautiful beaches and fascinating ruins. Nearby, the monastery of Apostolos Varnavas, a Greek Orthodox church constructed in 1756, and Salamis, a vast archaeological site dating back to 1075 BC, shed light on Cyprus’ ancient history.

For a true taste of the untouched, head to the Karpaz Peninsula. This long, sparsely populated strip of land is home to some of the island’s wildest beaches. Just sand, sea and the odd wild donkey, this is the Mediterranean as it was meant to be.

When is the cheapest time to visit?

October is a good time to nab a cheap holiday to Cyprus’ north – and you can still expect average temperatures resting around the 20C mark. Though cooler, with more chance of rain, spring (late March and April) is another option.

When to go for the best of both

For an affordable holiday with plenty of sunshine, consider May, early June and September. This is the shoulder season in Cyprus’ north, when temperatures hover around the low to mid-20s, and the prices are lower. If you’re confined to the school summer holidays, travel in late June or late August, when the prices tend to be more affordable.

Since the writer Lawrence Durrell immortalised Bellapais in his 1957 memoir Bitter Lemons, literary pilgrims have sought out this tiny mountain village in search of the “real” Cyprus. What they find rarely disappoints. A jumble of quiet, old streets centred around a huge, ruined abbey complex, Bellapais makes for a pleasant day trip away from the beach.

Nowadays, the church ruins are used for exhibitions and live music. The village has spectacular views down over Kyrenia town and out to sea.

Alagadi Beach

The quiet beaches of Cyprus’ north are ideal breeding grounds for loggerhead and green turtles. Alagadi Beach, a 40-minute drive east from Kyrenia, is one of the best spots on the island to see both species.

Between March and June, female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs by night; at the Alagadi Sea Turtle Conservation and Research Centre, you can arrange a viewing. Tourists can also help researchers release hatchling turtles under controlled conditions between July and August.

The ancient city of Salamis

A vast network of ruins and relics, Salamis is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. Founded by the ancient Greeks and used by Romans, Salamis’ collection of columns, statues, baths, basilicas, and cisterns stand as an open-air museum to the island’s long, complex history.

The large gymnasium and theatre are among Salamis’ most impressive sights. A handful of trails run around the site, which overlooks the dazzling blue hues of the Levantine Sea.

The Karpaz Peninsula

Step even further from the beaten track with a trip to the Karpaz Peninsula, Northern Cyprus’ distinctive outstretched finger. A place where mile after mile of deserted beaches beckon, each one is quieter and more remote than the last.

Golden Beach lies almost at the tip of the peninsula, deserted and backed by gentle dunes. Here, at the end of the world, you’ll find the Mediterranean as it once was. The nearby Monastery of Apostolos Andreas, a pilgrimage site for Greek Orthodox, is also well worth the trek. A rental car is essential.

Nicosia, the “world’s last divided capital”

A tremendous barricade cleaves Nicosia in two, affording it the unusual accolade “the world’s last divided city”. The “Green Line”, as the border is known, stops streets dead, gun positions still fixed in frozen menace.

Today, it is possible to pass between both sides with ease, making the city well worth a few days of exploration. On the Turkish-occupied side, North Nicosia (Lefkosa), don’t miss Buyuk Han, an old Ottoman traders house, and Selimiye Camii, an old Gothic cathedral turned mosque.

On the northern coast, Kyrenia is the major tourist spot, and while there aren’t any beaches in the town itself, there are plenty of hotels along the coastline to either side. Bafra, on the southern edge of the Karpaz Peninsula, meanwhile, specialises in resorts at the up-market end of the spectrum.

For travellers on a budget

Compared to most Mediterranean destinations, holidays to Cyprus’ north are cheap. And because it uses the lira, in-resort prices are low too. Win, win.

At Kyrenia, there is a large cluster of hotels spreading west along the coast. It’s here you’ll find some of the best bargains. The further back you stay from the beach, the cheaper the rates tend to be. Note that you’ll need a rental car, as public transport in these parts is not the most reliable. There are also cheap options in Famagusta, but there tends to be more choice around Kyrenia.

For food and drink

Food in the north of Cyprus is heavily influenced by Turkey and Greece. That means melt-in-your-mouth lamb, hearty piles of moussaka, and endless stuffed vine leaves, all washed down with strong Turkish coffee. Kyrenia and its beautiful harbour is the standout foodie spot. Here, the focus is on traditional tavernas.

Nicosia, meanwhile, gives you the best of both Cypriot worlds – slip across the Green Line and you’ll experience the subtle differences in dining between the north and south. The capital also has the most variation, with lots of Middle Eastern and international cuisine alongside Turkish and Cypriot.

For nightlife

Whether you’re after a few drinks along the harbour or a late night of clubbing, Kyrenia has the liveliest nightlife in Cyprus’ north. Besides traditional tavernas and clubs, you’ll find a mix of upmarket hotel bars, music pubs and casinos. Capital Nicosia comes a distant second, with much less variety, plus, a lack of beaches.

Most people will probably prefer Famagusta, which has a decent number of bars and restaurants clustered around the old town. For big nights, Kyrenia is the best bet.

For culture

With four major historic sites nearby (the ancient city of Salamis, the Royal Tombs, the Ruins of Engomi, and Saint Barnabas monastery), Famagusta is a good spot for culture cravers.

For museums and galleries, consider Nicosia. Some of the best, such as the Cyprus Museum (archaeology) and the Byzantine Museum, are on the Cypriot side of the city, but you can pass between the two sides easily at one of the two checkpoints. On the Turkish side, don’t miss Selimiye Camii, a spectacular mosque in an old Gothic cathedral.