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Why go to Northern Cyprus

Northern Cyprus has got the lot. Long summers drenched in sunshine? Yep. Wild, undeveloped beaches? Plenty. Atmospheric old towns, crumbling ancient ruins, a rambling rural hinterland? Tick, tick, and tick.

All this, and it doesn’t even exist – at least not officially, anyway. Recognised only by Turkey since the island split in 1974, a political question mark has long hung over Cyprus’ north. By and large, this uncertainty has left the region pretty much devoid of mass tourism and high-rise hotels. It means holidays to Cyprus’ north are very cheap in comparison to other similar destinations. It’s the Med, but not as you know it.

Kyrenia, at the centre of the northern coast, is the main holiday centre. Famed for its splendid Venetian castle, spectacular harbour and warren of an old town, Kyrenia (or Girne) is buffered on either side by long stretches of dreamy Mediterranean coastline. A medieval jumble of ancient churches, Ottoman flourishes, cafes, restaurants and museums, it is easily one of the prettiest towns on the island, and a must visit.

Over on the east coast sits Famagusta (or Gazimagusa), a handsome walled city of beautiful beaches and fascinating ruins. Nearby, the monastery of Apostolos Varnavas, a Greek Orthodox church constructed in 1756, and Salamis, a vast archaeological site dating back to 1075 BC, shed light on Cyprus’ ancient history.

For a true taste of the untouched, head to the Karpaz Peninsula. This long, sparsely populated strip of land is home to some of the island’s wildest beaches. Just sand, sea and the odd wild donkey, this is the Mediterranean as it was meant to be.

When to go to Northern Cyprus

When to go for the best weather

The peak summer months (from late June to August) are the hottest time of the year in Cyprus’ north. Temperatures regularly rise above 30C and the island is at its busiest, so you can expect to pay the highest prices. That said, Cyprus’ north is generally much cheaper than its southern counterpart, so it’s always worth having a look at these months first.

When is the cheapest time to visit?

October is a good time to nab a cheap holiday to Cyprus’ north – and you can still expect average temperatures resting around the 20C mark. Though cooler, with more chance of rain, spring (late March and April) is another option.

When to go for the best of both

For an affordable holiday with plenty of sunshine, consider May, early June and September. This is the shoulder season in Cyprus’ north, when temperatures hover around the low to mid-20s, and the prices are lower. If you’re confined to the school summer holidays, travel in late June or late August, when the prices tend to be more affordable.

What to do in Northern Cyprus

Holidays in Cyprus’ north offer a fascinating blend of ancient historical ruins, blissfully underdeveloped beaches and sleepy traditional villages. From hatchling sea turtles to Roman city ruins, there’s plenty to keep you busy on this half of the island.

Bellapais village

Since the writer Lawrence Durrell immortalised Bellapais in his 1957 memoir Bitter Lemons, literary pilgrims have sought out this tiny mountain village in search of the “real” Cyprus. What they find rarely disappoints. A jumble of quiet, old streets centred around a huge, ruined abbey complex, Bellapais makes for a pleasant day trip away from the beach.

Nowadays, the church ruins are used for exhibitions and live music. The village has spectacular views down over Kyrenia town and out to sea.

Alagadi Beach

The quiet beaches of Cyprus’ north are ideal breeding grounds for loggerhead and green turtles. Alagadi Beach, a 40-minute drive east from Kyrenia, is one of the best spots on the island to see both species.

Between March and June, female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs by night; at the Alagadi Sea Turtle Conservation and Research Centre, you can arrange a viewing. Tourists can also help researchers release hatchling turtles under controlled conditions between July and August.

The ancient city of Salamis

A vast network of ruins and relics, Salamis is one of the most important archaeological sites in the Mediterranean. Founded by the ancient Greeks and used by Romans, Salamis’ collection of columns, statues, baths, basilicas, and cisterns stand as an open-air museum to the island’s long, complex history.

The large gymnasium and theatre are among Salamis’ most impressive sights. A handful of trails run around the site, which overlooks the dazzling blue hues of the Levantine Sea.

The Karpaz Peninsula

Step even further from the beaten track with a trip to the Karpaz Peninsula, Northern Cyprus’ distinctive outstretched finger. A place where mile after mile of deserted beaches beckon, each one is quieter and more remote than the last.

Golden Beach lies almost at the tip of the peninsula, deserted and backed by gentle dunes. Here, at the end of the world, you’ll find the Mediterranean as it once was. The nearby Monastery of Apostolos Andreas, a pilgrimage site for Greek Orthodox, is also well worth the trek. A rental car is essential.

Nicosia, the “world’s last divided capital”

A tremendous barricade cleaves Nicosia in two, affording it the unusual accolade “the world’s last divided city”. The “Green Line”, as the border is known, stops streets dead, gun positions still fixed in frozen menace.

Today, it is possible to pass between both sides with ease, making the city well worth a few days of exploration. On the Turkish-occupied side, North Nicosia (Lefkosa), don’t miss Buyuk Han, an old Ottoman traders house, and Selimiye Camii, an old Gothic cathedral turned mosque.

Where to stay in Northern Cyprus

For families

Much like its southern counterpart, Cyprus’ north is ideal for a family beach holiday. For easy access to some of the finest beaches, stay around Famagusta on the east coast. The ancient city of Salamis is also nearby.

On the northern coast, Kyrenia is the major tourist spot, and while there aren’t any beaches in the town itself, there are plenty of hotels along the coastline to either side. Bafra, on the southern edge of the Karpaz Peninsula, meanwhile, specialises in resorts at the up-market end of the spectrum.

For travellers on a budget

Compared to most Mediterranean destinations, holidays to Cyprus’ north are cheap. And because it uses the lira, in-resort prices are low too. Win, win.

At Kyrenia, there is a large cluster of hotels spreading west along the coast. It’s here you’ll find some of the best bargains. The further back you stay from the beach, the cheaper the rates tend to be. Note that you’ll need a rental car, as public transport in these parts is not the most reliable. There are also cheap options in Famagusta, but there tends to be more choice around Kyrenia.

For food and drink

Food in the north of Cyprus is heavily influenced by Turkey and Greece. That means melt-in-your-mouth lamb, hearty piles of moussaka, and endless stuffed vine leaves, all washed down with strong Turkish coffee. Kyrenia and its beautiful harbour is the standout foodie spot. Here, the focus is on traditional tavernas.

Nicosia, meanwhile, gives you the best of both Cypriot worlds – slip across the Green Line and you’ll experience the subtle differences in dining between the north and south. The capital also has the most variation, with lots of Middle Eastern and international cuisine alongside Turkish and Cypriot.

For nightlife

Whether you’re after a few drinks along the harbour or a late night of clubbing, Kyrenia has the liveliest nightlife in Cyprus’ north. Besides traditional tavernas and clubs, you’ll find a mix of upmarket hotel bars, music pubs and casinos. Capital Nicosia comes a distant second, with much less variety, plus, a lack of beaches.

Most people will probably prefer Famagusta, which has a decent number of bars and restaurants clustered around the old town. For big nights, Kyrenia is the best bet.

For culture

With four major historic sites nearby (the ancient city of Salamis, the Royal Tombs, the Ruins of Engomi, and Saint Barnabas monastery), Famagusta is a good spot for culture cravers.

For museums and galleries, consider Nicosia. Some of the best, such as the Cyprus Museum (archaeology) and the Byzantine Museum, are on the Cypriot side of the city, but you can pass between the two sides easily at one of the two checkpoints. On the Turkish side, don’t miss Selimiye Camii, a spectacular mosque in an old Gothic cathedral.

Good to know

Flight time

5 hrs

(from London)

Currency

Turkish Lira (₺)

Language

Turkish

Tips and advice

Is it safe to go to Northern Cyprus?

Northern Cyprus is considered quite safe as a holiday destination. Use common sense, as on any holiday, and check the Foreign, Commonwealth & Development Office before booking for the most up-to-date travel advice.

Do I need to have a visa to go to Northern Cyprus?

No, travellers with a full British passport do not need a visa to go to Northern Cyprus.

What vaccinations do I need to go to Northern Cyprus?

There are no specific vaccinations needed for Northern Cyprus.

How many days do I need in Northern Cyprus?

To get a good mix of city and beach, between five and seven days should do. However, if you want to the rural side of Cyprus’ north (or spend more time on the beach), you might want up to ten days.

Are there any local customs I need to be aware of?

Although not the strictest Muslim country, consider your dress when away from the beach. Talk of the political situation between the north and south of Cyprus is best avoided.

Getting around Northern Cyprus

Car hire is the best way to get around in Cyprus’ north. Local buses are infrequent and unreliable.