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Formentera doesn’t have the glitz and glamour of its neighbours – and that’s just the way this Spanish island likes it. A hippie haven, the smallest inhabited Balearic Island now lures more visitors than it once did but even then, it still manages to maintain its laid-back charm – so leave your worries (and shoes) at home.
Formentera dangles to the south of sister island Ibiza in the Mediterranean Sea. But, though only a 30-minute ferry ride away, its pace is far slower. It’s this laid-back air that’s attracted famous free-thinkers to the island, including Bob Dylan and Pink Floyd.
Today, many Formentera holidays are based around its beaches, regarded as some of the best in Europe. The pristine stretches of white sand that ring the island and look out over perfect azure waters could be from a Caribbean paradise. Even better, they won’t be as packed as the famous beaches on the Spanish mainland.
But it’s not just about lazy days in the sun here – Formentera is also a top destination for watersports, such as paddleboarding or kayaking out to the quiet coves hidden along the coast. Alternatively, put on a snorkel to see underwater plants and count the shimmering fish swimming in the clear waters.
Beyond the beaches, Formentera’s interior is just as unspoilt. The 12-mile (19km) long island has only 12,000 or so residents, so you’ll be free to explore the historic towns and juniper and pine forests at your own pace. One of the best ways to do so is on foot or bike, thanks to Formentera’s relatively flat landscape and network of cycle paths.
After navigating the often-arid interior, visit one of the tranquil fishing villages for a lunch of fresh seafood. Sit back, order a glass of something cold, and wonder if you’ve ever felt this relaxed.
There’s never truly a bad time for a holiday to Formentera – the island can be enjoyed pretty much throughout the year due to its Mediterranean climate.
From June to September, there is little rain, the days are long and sun-drenched, and average temperatures hover around the mid-20s. July and August are the best bet for guaranteed sunbathing weather, but this is also peak season so beaches will be more crowded and prices higher.
Tourists start arriving in May, but you should still be able to find cheap holidays to Formentera before the summer rush. In September, and even October, the weather is generally fine – often in the low-20s – and hotels may drop prices.
Though you may have to put up with a few windy days, and you probably won’t be sunbathing, from November to April, you’ll feel like you have the idyllic island all to yourself.
The beauty of holidays to Formentera is that there’s no pressure to do all that much. But if lying on a stunning beach gets old, there are other ways to soak up the relaxed island vibe. Explore on two wheels, discover the island’s history and take in views so good they’re hard to believe.
Beaches
Formentera’s star attraction is its beaches. Platja de Ses Illetes, on the spit that runs off the north coast, is the island’s best-known beach. Within the Ses Salines Natural Park, the silky white sands and turquoise waters make this feel like a tropical paradise.
On the south coast, Platja de Migjorn is a three-mile (five-kilometre) beach where you won’t find much other than a few beach bars. Waters around Formentera are shallow and swimming is generally safe.
Cycling
Formentera has 32 green routes covering more than 60 miles (100km), most of which are accessible by bike. Routes pass sand dunes, traditional houses and lead everywhere from the isolated but atmospheric Torre de la Gavina tower, on the west coast, to charming Terramoll winery in the east.
With a flat landscape and little traffic, cycling is fairly easy here; the Formentera tourism office produces a guide to the greenways including routes and a difficulty rating. For real aficionados, the island hosts three cycling races in October, including one for all levels.
Watersports
The Formentera Marina hosts plenty of luxurious yachts in the summer but you don’t need to be rich to make the most of the million-dollar surroundings. The island has a UNESCO-protected underwater reserve, where a seagrass field filters the sea surrounding Formentera to leave excellent visibility – ideal for getting a glimpse of rich marine life.
The calm surf also makes watersports such as windsurfing and paddleboarding popular, and kayaking is a peaceful way to visit the coves dotted along the shore.
Lighthouses
Perched dramatically on a cliff, La Mola Lighthouse is one of Formentera’s most inspiring sights. Looking over an endless sea, views are particularly striking at sunrise or sunset. The French novelist Jules Verne was so impressed that he mentioned the lighthouse in his novel, Héctor Servadac.
On the southwest coast, Cap de Barbaria Lighthouse is a top spot for sunset. The site is only accessible via a narrow road and, if you find yourself alone, you’ll feel like the last person on earth.
Ethnological Museum
Before Formentera was discovered by creatives, it was occupied by various groups, from Romans to pirates. To learn about the history of Formentera, visit the small ethnological museum in Sant Francesc Xavier, the island’s main town.
The museum gives visitors an insight into how the people of Formentera once lived, including exhibitions of traditional dress. A display of tools sheds light on how the islanders worked in fishing and salt production – industries that once powered the economy.
If you’re travelling to Formentera with the kids, an area by the beach is your best bet to keep them entertained. The sandy sections of Platja de Migjorn are likely to be a hit, and its position on the south coast of the island means smaller crowds and less competition for sandcastle space. There are plenty of restaurants around, most with spectacular views.
East of Platja de Migjorn, Es Arenals is a beach shielded by sand dunes with a watersports centre. Accommodation in these areas can be limited, so make sure you book well in advance.
Despite its history as a famed hippie hangout, today, Formentera doesn’t quite have as many budget options as it once did. One area where affordable deals can still be found is the quaint capital Sant Francesc Xavier. If you don’t mind staying inland, you can get more for your money in accommodation and restaurants here.
Another option for a cheap break to Formentera is Es Pujols. Essentially the island’s only resort town, there is a variety of accommodation, from high-end hotels to more modest lodgings. Here, like anywhere on Formentera, your euros will go further off season.
A burgeoning restaurant scene on Formentera means you’ll find everything from inventive tapas to beachside shacks serving simple fish dishes. Coastal locations such as Es Pujols and Platja de Ses Illetes have a wide range of restaurants, including plenty focusing on seafood. There’s also lots of eating options around the marina at La Savina, including international cuisine such as sushi and pizza.
In the pretty village of Sant Ferran de Ses Roques, in the centre of the island, you’ll find restaurants serving typical Formentera dishes such as meat stew, a local specialty.
If DJ sets and dancing until dawn is your thing, hop on the ferry to Ibiza – Formentera’s nightlife offering is far from the superclubs of its sister island.
Of course, there are still areas for a late-night drink or two and Es Pujols is home to the most vibrant nightlife. A section of streets back from the beach hosts numerous bars and even a small club. While the atmosphere can be lively until the early hours, there are also bars with the more chilled-out beats Formentera is accustomed to.
There’s more to Formentera than beaches, and Sant Francesc Xavier is a great place to stay to see some of its cultural treasures. The town church, dating from the 1700s, was built partly as a haven to protect local people from pirate raids, and the Ethnographic Museum is also in town. In June, the Formentera Jazz Festival is held here.
Es Caló, on the north coast, is a pleasant fishing village on the harbour. There isn’t a huge amount of accommodation here, but there are traditional fisherman’s huts and the ruins of Can Blai, a Roman chapel.
2 hrs 30 mins
(from London)
Euros (€)
Catalan and Spanish
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