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At once ancient and contemporary, Izmir will take you on a unique journey through Turkey's rich past and captivating present. Full of monuments, markets and museums, with a modern seafront promenade dotted with green spaces, it’s easy to see why it’s been dubbed the Pearl of the Aegean.
Tucked away in the west of Turkey, Izmir is a classic seaside destination – and one that has enough surprises to keep you on your (sand-covered) toes. In the wider Izmir province, for example, you’ll find Ilica, which is famous for its thermal hot springs and Foça, where a traditional fishing village with a beautiful beach awaits.
One of the most fascinating things about the city is how much history is on show. You don’t have to look hard to see the echoes of Persian, Roman and Ottoman rule: Izmir Clock Tower, Kadifekale Castle, Yali Mosque and the agora are all worthy contenders for your historic hitlist. The Museum of History and Art, with plenty for art lovers to enjoy, is also worth a look-in.
As for the more modern aspects of the city, these can be traced back as far as 1922 when the Great Fire of Smyrna felled most of the city. The clean, cultured and contemporary squares and green spaces, all set against sea views and soaring mountains, are some of the lasting legacies of the tragedy. From great restaurants and family-friendly bars to shops and a wildlife park, Izmir today feels very cosmopolitan.
If you want to explore further afield, holidays in Izmir will put you within firing distance of other notable destinations in Turkey, including UNESCO World Heritage Site, Ephesus. You’re also close to many Greek islands, such as Chios. Hop on a ferry with passport in hand and enjoy a multicentre break.
If you want to find a cheap Izmir holiday, start searching early and book in advance – the city rarely gets cold, meaning it’s popular for most of the year.
Between June and September, average daytime highs can rocket past 30C and by night, temperatures rarely drop below 20C. When the sun is at its hottest at the middle of the day, find somewhere to hang out inside and remember to pack light layers, a floppy hat and plenty of suncream.
Spring and autumn are warm in Izmir – between 18C and 22C – and not much cheaper than the summer months. Want to sightsee without the feeling the heat or the stress of big crowds? Plan your trip for winter when the mercury drops to 14C.
It’s easy to while away your days during your Izmir holiday, sipping Turkish coffee in Konak Square or in a restaurant along the promenade. However, with a history that runs deep – and all the attractions you’d expect from Turkey’s third largest city – you may want to make some time for sightseeing.
Kemeralti Market
The scale of this bazaar means you could happily visit several times during your stay in Izmir and still get lost – but that’s part of the joy.
Dating back to the 17th century, its colourful streets are studded with stalls, quiet courtyards and ancient roadside inns once used by traders passing through. As well as haggling for handmade pashminas and tasting sticky sweets, you’ll also uncover artisanal workshops, mosques, synagogues and tea garden during your wanders.
Izmir Agora
The remains of this multi-storey marketplace help paint a picture of Izmir’s culturally diverse history across Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantium rule. Above ground, you’ll find the striking colonnade and Faustina Gate but in the basement of the two basilicas, you’ll be truly awe-struck – the vaulted chambers and cisterns here remain almost entirely intact.
Look out for the ancient graffiti – thought to be one of the largest collections in the world from this time – and unique Ottoman tombstones.
Izmir Museum of History & Art
Spread across three buildings, bordered by grand pillars and situated in a tranquil park, Izmir’s premier museum captivates before you even step foot inside.
Each pavilion specialises in their own display – sculptures in one, precious objects in another and ceramics in the third – so divide and conquer or make a beeline for the one you really want to see. Guides are on hand to share more about Izmir’s past, but if you prefer to explore under your own steam, the information under each artefact is in English.
Pamukkale and Hierapolis
Pamukkale, where mineral-rich waters have carved out an unfathomable landscape with deep basins, mineral forests and frozen waterfalls, is a sight to behold.
Dip a toe in its white, earth-warmed pools before heading to Hierapolis, the ancient Roman spa city next door. Here you can see well-preserved theatre ruins and a far-reaching necropolis with sarcophagi. The sites are about a three-hour coach ride from Izmir.
Ephesus
Follow ancient guidebooks to Ephesus, the home to one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Though all that’s left of the once-renowned Temple of Artemis is a few cobbled-together ruins, much of its surrounds are intact.
Go with a guide to uncover the secrets of Ephesus’ well-preserved streets, ancient houses, libraries, baths and gyms, and marvel at the sprawling theatre that could seat 25,000 spectators. The town is around an hour’s drive from Izmir.
4 hrs
(from London)
Turkish lira
Turkish
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