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Gritty yet graceful, Athens is a surprise package. Most arrive expecting the ancient world and find a city looking forwards. A place where pop-up galleries rub against ruins, rooftop bars complement traditional tavernas and a modern street food scene rivals old-favourite souvlaki – today, a holiday in Athens is just as much about what’s happening as what has happened.
Of course, in a city with over 3,000 years of history, the past is unavoidable. Whether you’re gazing up at the iconic Acropolis, or taking in colourful centuries-old frescoes in a Byzantine church, Athens’ legendary story is everywhere. And that’s all before you’ve even visited its world-famous museums, filled with everything from ancient artefacts to contemporary art.
These days, though, some of Athens’ best art isn’t in its museums – it’s on its walls, street signs, and park benches. The city’s street art scene has exploded in the last decade, covering Athens in spectacular murals, intricate tags and politically charged graffiti. For an insight into modern Athens, take a guided tour of its street art.
Avid foodies won’t have to search too hard for a good feed, either. From cheap souvlaki in a charming neighbourhood joint and a full-on tasting menu in one of its stylish new restaurants to exciting street food festivals, Athens is easily one of the most exciting capitals in Europe for eating out.
Then, of course there are the capital’s many, many bars. Athens is a late city, so you can dance until daylight or opt for a low-key experience into the small hours of the morning. Think sipping rose on a rooftop bar or enjoying a beer on the hip, graffitied streets of Psiri.
Athens is a fabulous destination to visit all-year-round but if you’re looking for a cheaper city break, without compromising on the weather, autumn and spring are excellent times to go. Temperatures cool to around 24C – perfect, if you plan on a lot of walking and alfresco dining.
Prefer to sizzle? Athens is a scorcher in summer, when temperatures can reach 34C. Break up your city exploration with a trip to the beaches of the Athens Riviera.
During the winter, temperatures can still be close to 15C. You can also enjoy the sites with far fewer tourists. Plus, a city break to Athens at this time of year is markedly cheaper, especially if you base yourself further towards the coast.
Think Athens, think ancient history. And while there are many must see enduring landmarks, there’s more to the city’s glorious past than these old-world attractions. Potter about and you’ll soon discover fresco-filled churches and traditional coffee shops – as well as big parks, colourful street markets and boutique shops.
Acropolis
With its iconic Parthenon gazing out over the city, the Acropolis is one of the most recognisable sites in the ancient world. Instead of heading straight here, take your time wandering through the grounds, stopping for pictures at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, an ancient theatre that still hosts concerts.
On the way out, clamber up Areopagus Hill and pose for a picture with the Parthenon in the background.
Acropolis Museum
A vast, light-filled space, the Acropolis Museum is packed with endless artefacts that were discovered on the site. A highlight here are the ruins of ancient Athenian neighbourhoods, which are exposed beneath a glass floor at the entrance.
Be sure to make time for the market stalls on the gently sloping street of Apostolou Pavlou, which leads down from the museum entrance.
Monastiraki Flea Market
Even if you’re not a keen souvenir shopper, it’s worth checking out the Monastiraki Flea Market. Packed with stalls selling everything from mid-century dressers to old lion-head doorknobs, as well as cafes and bars, it’s something of an Athens institution.
Start in Avissinias Square and work your way around the surrounding backstreets. Most sellers are out on Sundays but you’ll find plenty to rummage through on other days of the week, too.
Panathenaic Stadium
It’s a lovely stroll through the National Garden to the Panathenaic Stadium, which was originally built in the 4th century BC. Back then, this vast, all-marble arena was the heart of Greek athletics. Later, and more famously, it hosted the first modern Olympic Games in 1896.
The audio tour is great, but to experience it in action, coincide your trip with a rock concert at the venue.
Ancient Agora
This statue-dotted garden was once the commercial centre of Athens. Today it’s a different story. The Ancient Agora is now a peaceful spot to soak up some of the city’s history.
Pass by the Temple of Hephaestus – you may have spied its columns from the Acropolis – as well as the headless statue of Hadrian. Remember to stop by the museum, which is filled with pottery and coins.
Families that want to be close to all the sites should opt for Syntagma Square and the surrounding area. It’s a busy part of the city but very central. With great transport links and plenty of inexpensive restaurants, it’s a sure-fire way to keep all family members happy.
For a little more breathing room, try the neighbourhood around the Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center. The shiny Renzo Piano-designed arts hub sits next to a lavender-scented park, filled with pine trees, giant chessboards, slides and swings. It’s also an easy bus journey into town.
Up-and-coming Metaxourgeio is a fun and artsy neighbourhood where disused factories are slowly being transformed into cool arts spaces, flats and shops. Rent prices here are still low, which helps keep hotel rates reasonably priced.
Elsewhere, you’ll find plenty of affordable hotels in neighbourhoods like Koukaki and Psiri, as well as, perhaps surprisingly, the city centre. Being central also helps cut down the cost of getting around Athens via public transport, too.
The area around the Hilton hotel is Athens’ new foodie-hotspot where in-the-know locals flock for multi-course tasting menus in stylish restaurants. It’s not all fancy though: you’ll see plenty of people sipping beers in low-key bars with a crossword and hot souvlaki.
If you’re looking for inexpensive food and drink, then central Athens is crammed full of options, from cool coffee shops to old-school souvlaki joints. Each shop has its own delicious take on it, filling the bread with special sauces, spices and yoghurt.
The boho neighbourhood of Psiri is best enjoyed after dark, when bar crowds spill out onto the streets and tables buckle beneath the weight of ice-cold beers. It’s a raucous bar-hopping central, so one moment you might find yourself enjoying live rock music in one bar and techno music in the next.
For something more refined, explore the backstreets of central Athens, where you’ll find chic wine bars and joints serving mastiha, a sweet liquor. Be sure to look up – lots of the buildings around here, including hotels, have rooftop terraces, so you can enjoy your drink with some pretty impressive Parthenon views.
Plaka, popularly referred to as the ‘neighbourhood of gods’, may well be one of the most touristy parts of Athens, but if you’re looking to be close to all the historical action, this is a good place to base your stay.
Located right below the Acropolis, it’s a beautiful maze of narrow medieval streets that are dotted with Byzantine churches, plant-draped cafes and endless bougainvillea. There’s a very romantic village-like feel, despite being at the heart of a big and buzzing city.
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3 hrs 40 mins
(from London)
Euros (€)
Greek
7 min read
Updated 19 January 2024
6 min read
Published 19 October 2017