Istanbul holidays

Many visitors return home raving about Istanbul’s cuisine, too. From street food – think proper kebabs, grilled fish sandwiches and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice on every corner – to chic, high-end rooftop restaurants with views as memorable as the food, the choice is wide and delicious.

Elsewhere, shoppers will find plenty to fill their suitcases, from antiques, carpets and jewellery haggled over in the Grand Bazaar to the latest fashion found in the small boutiques that proliferate in the shadow of the Galata Tower. If you’re looking for luxury labels, make a beeline for the Nişantaşı district.

No visitor to Istanbul should miss a boat trip on the Bosphorus, where you can take in the gorgeous palaces and historic houses that line the banks. Take a ferry to the Asian side of the city and experience a more local scene in newly hipster neighbourhoods, Kadıköy and Moda.

Peak season runs from June to August, so expect large crowds and high prices. With temperatures around 27C, sightseeing is probably best done in the morning when it’s still relatively cool.

To stand the best chance of having sights to yourself and low prices, travel in winter. From November to March – excluding the Christmas period – holidays to Istanbul are at their cheapest. Snow is rare but expect rain.

With views over the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn, this former home of Ottoman Empire sultans is a warren of treasures – walls and towers enclose a giant complex of courtyards lined by intricately tiled rooms filled with an array of art and artefacts.

It’s huge, so if you’re short on time, head for the harem, where the sultan’s many wives and children would have lived; pop by the second court, which contains the palace kitchens and imperial council chamber; and check out the third court, home to the sultan’s private rooms.

Hagia Sophia

When this extraordinary building was completed in 537 AD, the Byzantine Emperor, Justinian I, bragged that with it he had outdone even the famously wealthy King Solomon, who built the first Temple of God in Jerusalem. Dedicated as a cathedral, it was then the world’s largest building. It was converted into a mosque in 1453 and became a museum in 1935.

Visit the upstairs galleries for the best of the gilded mosaics and the sultans’ tombs for intricate calligraphy. Don’t miss the separate dining halls – they’re now filled with antique carpets.

Blue Mosque

With its six soaring minarets, multiple domes and exquisite symmetry, the Blue Mosque is Istanbul’s most photogenic building. Inside, the building’s name becomes clear: over 20,000 traditional Iznik tiles decorate the interior. These Anatolian ceramics cover the walls in designs of tulips, roses, lilies and cypresses.

When visiting, bear in mind that it is a working mosque and closes for prayer. Men should wear trousers not shorts, and women should cover arms, legs and hair with loose-fitting clothes and a headscarf.

Basilica Cistern

An underground water cistern might not sound like a must-visit, but there’s a reason Istanbul’s Basilica Cistern is nicknamed the ‘Yerebatan Sarayi’ (Sunken Palace). In an underground cavern, 336 towering Corinthian columns are reflected in the water, which you may recognise from the Bond flick From Russia With Love.

Built during the 6th century, it supplied Byzantine and Ottoman palaces with water but fell into disuse and was forgotten until the 16th century, when locals who lived above it sunk wells and caught fresh fish.

Grand Bazaar

Whether you intend to spend or not, mooching around the Grand Bazaar is a must-do on a visit to Istanbul. One of the world’s largest and oldest covered markets, it’s home to over 4,000 shops.

Wander among stalls selling carpets, jewellery, antiques, textiles and leather goods, and be prepared for a friendly onslaught as vendors compete to tempt you to look at their wares. Prepare to haggle – it’s de rigueur.

The nearby Beyazit or Bazaar district is suitable for similar reasons, with Sultanahmet’s sights within reach, plus the aromatic Spice Bazaar and the Grand Bazaar itself. In any area, consider apartments as well as hotels, for the extra space and facilities.

For travellers on a budget

Istanbul has plenty of options for those watching the pennies. You’ll find modern hostels in most areas, including Sultanahmet, Karaköy and around Taksim Square. In Sultanahmet, look for cheap holiday options on the streets around Akbıyık Caddesi, one of the few places you can get a late-night drink in the neighbourhood.

For higher-end accommodation at competitive prices, check out Kadıköy. Prices on the Asian side of the city are predominantly lower than the European, so your money will go further. This hip, up-and-coming area has a lovely promenade along the Bosphorus.

For food and drink

Facing Sultanahmet across the Golden Horn, Beyoğlu is Istanbul’s dining hub. Find swish rooftop restaurants with prices to match the altitude, excellent value meyhane, a sort of Turkish tavern that specialises in traditional food and drink, seafood restaurants serving fresh catches, and hole-in-the-wall kebab spots. Accommodation is as varied as the gourmet scene, with options to suit all budgets.

If you’d rather avoid nightlife noise on your doorstep, stay in Eminönü. This riverside quarter is quieter in the evenings, and just a 10-minute walk over the Galata Bridge to Beyoğlu. It’s also where you’ll find the Spice Bazaar, and Ottoman-styled boat restaurants serving grilled fish sandwiches, a traditional fast-food favourite.

For nightlife

The more modern, thriving district of Beyoğlu is where the lion’s share of Istanbul’s nightlife is located. There’s also a good choice of accommodation here, so it’s only a short walk home. Rooftop bars, basement clubs, courtyard cocktail dens and live music venues abound, particularly in harbourside Karaköy, as well as around the busy streets of Istiklal Caddesi and Asmalımescit.

There’s also a growing scene across the Bosphorus in trendy Kadıköy and Moda, where you’ll find cafes, bars and live music venues. That’s especially true around Kadife Sokak, which has such a concentrated nightlife that locals know it as ‘bar street’.

For culture

For Istanbul’s signature sights, staying in Sultanahmet is a no-brainer – the Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque and Basilica Cistern are all on the doorstep, with the Grand Bazaar nearby. You’ll find plenty of accommodation, and evenings are peaceful.

Across the Golden Horn, Beyoğlu has plenty of culture as well as nightlife. There are many galleries here, including the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art and the Museum of Innocence, created by Nobel Prize-winning author Orhan Pamuk.