Hvar holidays

As an antidote to glitzy Hvar Town, Stari Grad offers a more laidback experience as well as access to some fine beaches. The villages of Jelsa and Vrboska are even more chilled out – perfect for lazy days at the beach when you’re not feasting on fresh seafood in waterside restaurants. Don’t miss day trips to the pristine Pakleni Islands, a small archipelago just off Hvar, and the Blue Cave, a spectacular grotto lit up like a sapphire.

The good weather brings crowds, however, and the island can get very overcrowded during the main holiday months of July and August, when prices will be at their highest.

When to go for cheaper prices

May and June are very pleasant times to visit, when temperatures will be mild, prices lower, and wildflowers – especially lavender – carpet the island.

By September and October, temperatures are still comfortably in the high to mid-20s but prices start to drop, making it an especially appealing time to visit. Water temperatures will still be as warm they were in late summer, and the autumn grape harvest will be in full swing.

This citadel looming over Hvar Town was built in the Middle Ages, with the Venetians and Austrians adding various extra fortifications over the centuries. Follow the zigzagging path through the gardens to reach the top, and you’ll have extraordinary views from the ramparts as your reward. Take in the town’s main landmarks, including the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral, which sits in the marble splendour of St Stephen’s Square. You’ll also have superb views of the glittering harbour and the islands beyond.

Beaches

As you’ll find throughout Croatia, most of the beaches in Hvar are pebbly – but that doesn't make them any less beautiful. East of Hvar Town is the heavenly little Dubovica, a small cove surrounded by the dazzling blue-green of the Adriatic.

It’s close to another gorgeous pebbly beach, Zaraće, as well as the pine-backed bays of Milna. If you’re on the hunt for a sandy beach, try Mina beach near Jelsa, or Maslinica beach near Stari Grad.

Pakleni Islands

This string of islands facing Hvar Town makes an irresistible day trip. The closest is Jerolim, which is known for its naturist beaches.

If you’re up for a beachside party, head to the island of Marinkovac and the nightclub at Stipanska Bay. Marinkovac’s western side is much quieter, particularly at Mlini and Ždrilca. The island of Sveti Klement is a stylish, boho place with a sandy beach.

Franciscan Monastery and Museum

Away from the bustle of Hvar Town’s harbour and next to cute Lušica beach in the town’s southern side is the peaceful Franciscan Monastery and Museum. Crowned by an elegant bell tower, the 15th-century church features some beautiful works of art by Italian artists, and its Renaissance cloister is a haven from busy Hvar. It’s a contemplative spot for a hot and hectic summer’s day, and it’s open only from 10am-12pm and 5pm-7pm.

Stari Grad

Stari Grad is the island’s main ferry point, although many visitors bypass it in favour of its bigger neighbour. But there’s a pleasantly relaxed air about the town, as well as some excellent cultural sights.

The 16th-century Croatian poet Petar Hektorović built a fortified castle, Tvrdalj, which was his summer home. It’s open from June to September from 10am-12pm. A short walk away is the Dominican Monastery, which dates from the 15th century and includes a museum.

At the easternmost end of the island is the small village of Sućuraj, whose size and remoteness give it a peaceful atmosphere. It’s also handy for ferry trips to the mainland.

For travellers on a budget

Although Hvar Town is the most expensive place on the island, you can still find some cheaper budget hotels and campsites. That said, food and drink are considerably more expensive than in the other towns and villages, so it’s better to base yourself elsewhere if you’re looking for a cheap holiday in Hvar.

Jelsa has a good choice of affordable accommodation among its hotels, guesthouses, campsites and private apartments, and restaurants and bars are reasonably priced. It’s a similar situation in Stari Grad, as well as Sućuraj. You can also find budget private apartments in the small village of Vrboska near Jelsa.

For food and drink

While Hvar Town is the most expensive place to stay, it also has the biggest choice of restaurants and cafés – all the better for enjoying the fresh seafood the island has to offer. You’ll find some brilliant restaurants among its four- and five-star hotels. It’s also handy for the little beach restaurants just outside the town, including those in the nearby village of Milna.

Stari Grad is also a good bet, as it has more restaurants that cater for locals, and Vrboska has some classy places among its smart resorts.

For nightlife

Hvar Town is the obvious choice for nightlife. In fact, you could say it’s the only choice. Not only is it the island’s largest town, but it also has the biggest selection of bars, restaurants and nightclubs. It’s where you’ll find Hvar’s poshest hotels, some with chic rooftop bars, and the harbour is the best place to join excursions on party boats that sail the Adriatic.

The smaller towns of Stari Grad and Jelsa have their share of lively bars, but the vibe is much more relaxed.

For culture

Hvar Town has the lion’s share of the island’s cultural attractions. In addition to the Franciscan Monastery, Spanish Fortress and St Stephen’s Cathedral, it has the impressive Arsenal right by the harbour. This 16th-century nautical warehouse was built by the Venetians and has been beautifully restored, housing a theatre and a contemporary art gallery.

Stari Grad has several cultural offerings too, including its Dominican Monastery and the 16th-century fortified castle, Tvrdalj, built by the Croatian poet Petar Hektorović.