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Amalfi Coast holidays are about exploring historic towns colourfully stacked on steep cliffs above the glittering Mediterranean, cruising coastal roads, sipping cold drinks on a scenic terrace and lazing away the day on a sun-lounger.
If you’ve heard of one place on the Amalfi Coast, it’s probably Positano, a town of timeless colourful houses cascading down a dramatic cliffside. Watch the world go by over the rim of your morning espresso, sip a negroni with a sea view or hop on a boat to explore nearby swimming spots.
Amalfi is the largest town in the area and a veritable journey back in time. Delve into its past at the 13th-century paper mill, the oldest in Europe and still working. There’s also the architectural delight of the 9th-century Basilica del Crocifisso, part of the Amalfi Cathedral. And just next to Amalfi is the gentle fishing village of Atrani, a warren of narrow walkways, staircases and hidden treasures.
Ravello is an essential stop on any holiday to the Amalfi Coast. The town’s forested views across idyllic bays create a more tranquil vibe than its busier neighbours. People come here for the magnificent gardens – Villa Cimbrone’s garden was designed in the early 1900s while Villa Rufolo’s garden was restored in the mid-1800s.
Perched nearby, La Rondinaia (The Swallow’s Nest) is worth keeping an eye out for. This glamorous villa, ivory white as Amalfi paper, was once home to the American writer Gore Vidal and regularly hosted his flock of celebrity friends.
Over in Vietri sul Mare, a visit to the Museo della Ceramica is a must. You’ll learn the history of the ceramics (bowls, plates and tiles) that you’ll see sold in so many shops along the Amalfi Coast. It’s a fascinating craft dating back to the Middle Ages.
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You might be perfectly content to stay in one spot and enjoy la dolce vita, but should you want to really explore the Amalfi Coast, consider adding these highlights to your itinerary.
Fresh fish should be high on the menu on your Amalfi Coast holiday. But with so much food grown locally in the rich volcanic soil, all the other flavours on your plate are delightfully fresh too.
And the pasta! Try spaghetti alle vongole (spaghetti with clams), or dip into a local trattoria for tomato and mozzarella gnocchi.
For a quick snack, a paper cone of fried fish and squid hits the spot. Lemon shows up in delizie al limone (a lemon sponge cake), lemon granita and, iconically, limoncello.
The town of Ravello is famous for its gardens overlooking the sea. The Torre-Museo walks you through Villa Rufolo and its gardens, which were restored by Scottish botanist Sir Francis Nevile Reid in 1853.
Villa Cimbrone’s gardens – designed by another Brit, Ernest Beckett – have stunning rose beds and a Moorish-style pavilion. The gardens are in full bloom between May and October.
Amalfi’s cathedral tells the story of the town’s long history, and serves as an emblem of just how powerful Amalfi once was. Attached to the 9th-century Basilica del Crocifisso (now an art museum), the cathedral has undergone many redesigns down the centuries as fashions ebbed and flowed. It has an intriguing blend of Arab-Norman, gothic, renaissance and baroque styles.
Visit the Moorish Chiostro del Paradiso (Cloister of Paradise), built in the 13th century and the final resting place to many of Amalfi’s famous residents.
The gateway to the Amalfi Coast, Vietri sul Mare is best known for its bright ceramics, made using techniques and designs passed down through the generations. The Museo della Ceramica, just outside town, is the best place to learn about this long history of craftsmanship.
Afterwards, take a wander to see the ceramics decorating the colourful houses and head up to the tiled walkways overlooking the sea from Villa Comunale.
The Aceto family has grown the Amalfi’s famous, sunshine-loving lemons for generations. Visit the family farm for a good idea of the hard work and skill they put into harvesting the rich coastal slopes. Take the two-hour tour, with a break for a slice of lemon cake and fresh lemonade, and stay for the honey production tour. You can also join a cooking or ceramic painting class.
Heading to the Amalfi Coast for a beach holiday? There’s no shortage of scenic spots for swimming or sunbathing, whether you’re seeking sand, pebble beaches or romantic hideaway coves.
Positano’s main beach can be busy, so for a relaxed beach day wander west from the harbour to the sun-loungers and vibey beach bars on pebbled Spiaggia del Fornillo.
Set between two steep rock faces east of Praiano, Marina di Praia is a picturesque pebbled cove. Rent a boat, enjoy lunch at a beachside restaurant or watch fishing boats pull in their squid haul as the sun sets.
The green waters of the Emerald Grotto are a special experience. Join a boat trip through the cave to see its sunken nativity scene, and if you’re there when the boats have stopped, you can even take a swim.
Many of the beaches on the Amalfi Coast are pebbly, but Vietri sul Mare’s beaches are among the longest and sandiest stretches in the region.
Mythical sirens attempted to lure Odysseus to his death in Li Galli, so said Homer’s epic. Today, you can take a boat from Positano to swim or snorkel in the clear waters around this rocky archipelago.
Italians typically take an afternoon riposo (rest) and eat dinner late, so why not match your schedule to theirs? Tipping isn’t expected, but is appreciated. And remember to cover your shoulders when entering a church.
For a classic road trip, hire a car. Just keep in mind that you’re likely to encounter heavy traffic in peak season. For some spots, it’s often quicker to walk or take the ferry.
Italy uses plugs with two or three round pins, type C, F or L. Universal plug adapters work just fine.
You can experience the Amalfi Coast in a couple of days if you just want to relax by the sea and eat great food. But to explore the region at a more leisurely pace, aim for between five days and a week.