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With a rugged, mountainous interior that descends into pretty pebbled beaches and warm Aegean waves, Samos has all the Greek island charm of days gone by. This peaceful place has somehow stayed relatively off-radar to the tourist hordes, which means a Samos holiday is still an authentic, quiet beach break in the sun.
Taking it easy is the quintessential Samos experience. It’s a sleepy pace of life here and lazy days can be filled by resting on a beach, paddling in the sea and taking coastal strolls along its pristine shoreline. The island’s harbour towns have splashes of a distinctively Greek palette with whites, blues and bougainvillea pinks, and there are plenty of tavernas to find among the winding narrow alleyways.
Indeed, wherever you base yourself, you can expect to enjoy long alfresco lunches backed by spectacular scenery – the island’s fertile landscape produces an endless menu of homegrown ingredients, such as extra virgin olive oil and feta cheese. Seafront tavernas in Samos are hopelessly romantic, serving traditional mezze platters and freshly caught fish – best washed down by a glass of local wine, of course.
Feeling a bit more active? The northern resorts get enough breeze for windsurfing, while the sand-free coastline assures clear waters for snorkelling. Spring hikers can take on Mount Kérkis by following its herb-scented pathways to the top where you’ll find some of the best views on the island. Meanwhile, less-energetic walkers may prefer exploring the lower hills, discovering waterfalls, caves and churches along the way.
Samos has also had a long and fascinating history, with characters like Pythagoras, Epicurus and Aesop playing a part in its story. What’s left of this distant past can be seen today at the Eupalinos Tunnel, the ruins of the sanctuary of Heraion, and in museums packed with ancient artefacts.
If you’re looking to kick back on the beach for your Samos holiday, anytime between May to October sees long sunny days and warm sea temperatures (ranging from 20C to 30C). Peak holiday season here doesn’t get nearly as busy as other, well-trodden Greek islands, so even if you visit in the hottest month, August, you’ll likely find a quiet sunbathing spot somewhere.
For hiking, spring is the best time to visit. The green interior will have a light blanket of colourful wildflowers and you’ll be joined by migrating birds heading along the Turkish coast.
From October onwards, when temperatures begin to dip – from the low 20s to around 5–10C – hotels and tavernas begin to close their doors for the winter. While it’s still possible to reach Samos via Athens, the island goes into hibernation and you won’t find a lot open.
It’d be easy to spend a week or two solely on the beach in Samos, floating in the sea and enjoying sundowners with a view – the laid-back island, after all, does a classic seaside holiday so well. But that’s just a small slice of what’s on offer: there’s ancient history, mountain trails, traditional villages and plenty more.
Hera’s birthplace
According to legend, the Goddess Hera was born on Samos, and between the 8th and 6th centuries BC, a sanctuary consisting of three temples and thousands of statues was constructed in her honour. In their day, the awesome marble structures would have been larger than the Parthenon in Athens.
While earthquakes and years of pillaging have left just the foundations and a giant column, it’s still worth a visit. Also make time for the Archaeological Museum of Samos, which houses many of the area’s impressive ancient artefacts, including the Kouros of Samos.
Eupalinos Tunnel
During the 6th century, Samos’ ruler, Polycrates, needed a plan to secure enough drinking water for the island’s growing population.
The answer came from one of ancient Greece’s most ingenious engineers, Eupalinos, who designed a 1036m (3,398ft) tunnel. It’s still there today, and you can go inside via one of the regular guided tours.
Hiking
Samos’ lush interior is primed for walkers, with footpaths leading from coastal villages to caves, waterfalls and hidden hillside tavernas.
Avid hikers can take the seven-hour round trip up Mount Kérkis with its olive trees, way-marked trails and dramatic views. The route begins at Votsalákia and weaves up to the peak of the mountain more than 1,400m (4,600ft) above.
Wine tasting
Vineyards can be spotted across Samos’ rugged landscape. The island's tradition of winemaking is believed to date back to around 1200BC, and local producers are well known for their sweet Muscat dessert wines.
You can visit the wineries in the north of the island to try their latest offerings and buy a few bottles at often very reasonable prices. Likewise, the Wine Museum in Vathy has a tour and tasting, with an introduction to the history of the craft.
Coastal drives
The coastline in Samos is fringed with pebble beaches and seaside hamlets. Exploring them makes for a fun road trip and each stop has something different to offer.
In the south east, Psili Ammos is a sandy beach, while Posidonio Bay has a small patch of shingle backed by pine trees and a charming marina. Head to Kokkari and Tsamadou for windsurfing and Potokaki for jet skis and pedalos. Livadaki on the north coast is a beautiful spot in a sheltered bay and is known for its laid-back beach parties.
For families
While there isn’t a family resort as such, children are likely to feel welcome wherever you go during your Samos holiday. Psili Ammos, with its sandy beach and shallow waters, is a good choice for a relaxed holiday spent building ancient Greece-inspired sandcastles. There are a few apartments close to the beach itself, or you could base yourself at Pythagoreio and drive from there.
Kokkari is a resort in the north with a pebble beach, clear waters and a windsurfing centre that’s just the ticket for parents with teenagers to entertain. A short drive from there, Tsamadou beach is one of the best spots on the island for snorkelling.
For travellers on a budget
Samos is an excellent choice for a cheap Greek island holiday. Recent press has impacted tourism here, and this, in turn, has lowered prices. However, the island hasn’t lost any of its original charm.
You’ll find cheaper hotels and apartments in Samos’ south-west beach resorts, which are dotted along the coast around Kampos Marathokampou. Pythagoreio, Ireon and Karlovassi all have several affordable options too.
For food and drink
Fresh fish, extra virgin olive oil and sweet local wine are just some of the produce that makes eating during your Samos holiday a delight. You’ll find tavernas serving the catch of the day in any of the coastal resorts, with Ireon having a particularly good reputation.
The flavours here are influenced by centuries of migration from nearby Turkey and beyond, but there's also plenty of traditional Greek cuisine, such as beef stifado, baked feta, and stuffed vegetables. Base yourself in one of the cosmopolitan towns (try Pythagoreio or Vathy) to experience the full variety of foods on offer.
For nightlife
Samos doesn’t have a wild nightlife centre like some of the other Greek islands, but that doesn’t mean you’ll have to look far for a late-night beach bar.
Stay at a larger holiday resort like Kokkari for a more extensive selection of cocktail bars and beach cafes. From here, it’s less than 20 minutes in a taxi to Vathy, where you’ll find even more choice of waterfront cafes, nightclubs and music until dawn.
For culture
To be close to the best of Samos’ history and culture, stay in Pythagoreio or Ireon. From either town, you’re a short drive to the Heraion, Eupalinos Tunnel and the castle of Lykourgos Logothetis. The Archaeological Museum of Pythagorion is also worthy of an afternoon, with pieces dating back to the 9th century BC.
The south west of the island is another option, where the beach resorts are close to Mount Kérkis and its hidden villages. From Votsalákia, you’re close enough to walk to Pythagoras’ cave and several nearby chapels.
6 hrs 10 mins
(from London)
Euro (€)
Greek
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Published 1 August 2016